Undoubtedly parts of this 220 meter route has been climbed before, people wandering off Eumenides, Adrenaline etc., but it is totally independent and has escaped any description in all guidebooks beginning in 1970 with Walter Fricke. Ever so humbly, this is a route linked together after a look in 2004. Without putting my head in a noose, I say this is among Sundance's finest rockclimbs. Begin 30m left of Eumenides.
P1. Start up a clean corner to a roof with a nice V slot, handcrack. Aim towards a left-angling, left-facing dihedral. Near its top half, follow face and flakes out to the left past a girth hitched solid chickenhead. Continue with some 5.7 R face climbing to a large (Eumenides) ledge, 55 meters, 5.9.
P2. Angle left up easy open dihedral. Pass an unique natural arch, then a flared crack, to a small pillar draped with rapslings. Boldly go up 5.9+ R face, then hit larger holds climbing just left of a large clump of jamesia shrubs. The crux fingercrack is straight above, 5.11-. Save some go for the ending. Where the crack Ys, diagonal right (5.10 an a bit runout). Belay inside a classic, two person, sentry box, 55 meters.
P3. Climb right trending, twin cracks past 2 fixed pieces (not ours) 5.9. Nail an insecure 5.11- bulge. Fight past a bush (The President!) and into a major, left-facing, dihedral system. Belay on a good ledge after approximately 30 meters.
P4. Do 55 meters up this excellent, clean dihedral 5.9 and finish over a roof. 5. 20 meters of low 5th class to top. Best off, unrope and head toward summit begin curving NE-ward, but always well above exposed slabs, into the top of East Descent Gully.
Standard: RPs to #3 Camalot, many runners.
|By david goldstein|
Aug 19, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Maybe 3* if it cleans up a little -- loses some lichen. A very good Sundance route, but a notch below Idiot Wind, Whiteman or Sidetrack, for starters.
The first 11- section seemed much harder, maybe a number grade, to me than the second. My (much taller) partner felt that the first was only slightly harder than the second.
We took the left fork of the Y crack after the P2 crux; this went at about 5.9 but introduced more rope drag.
The chickenhead mentioned in the P1 description no longer exists. It detached as I was yarding on it, resulting in a head first 30' plunge after which I was very glad I was wearing a helmet. Without the CH, it makes sense to stay in the corner longer and do a horizontal traverse left from near the top of the corner.