|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 660'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Nate A., S.Kimball, 2005|
|Submitted By:||S. Kimball on Jun 30, 2005|
|Comments on Hemp Necktie||Add Comment|
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By david goldstein
Aug 19, 2005
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maybe 3* if it cleans up a little -- loses some lichen. A very good Sundance route, but a notch below Idiot Wind, Whiteman or Sidetrack, for starters.
The first 11- section seemed much harder, maybe a number grade, to me than the second. My (much taller) partner felt that the first was only slightly harder than the second.
We took the left fork of the Y crack after the P2 crux; this went at about 5.9 but introduced more rope drag.
The chickenhead mentioned in the P1 description no longer exists. It detached as I was yarding on it, resulting in a head first 30' plunge after which I was very glad I was wearing a helmet. Without the CH, it makes sense to stay in the corner longer and do a horizontal traverse left from near the top of the corner.
From: Pinewood Springs
Jun 3, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
To find this route, walk past Mainliner & the big, left-facing Eumenides corner system.
About halfway up the face between a large roof system on your left and the Eumenides, left-facing corner system, you will see a smooth, bulging face with a crack tending left then back right. This crack is your destination.
At the crux, I was able to step left onto knobs that will allow you to tackle the crack as a one move, right-facing layback.
About 30' above the crux, there is a horn to sit on for your belay. Another pitch above the crux will take you to a ledge. From the ledge, head right towards wide crack, the face has many tear-drop features that you can climb to get around the bush and gain the crack again.
Luckily I had a #4.5 Camalot and was able to place it blindly in the wide crack, although not hard climbing this section was very scary as the pro was spotty.