Hemp Necktie  5.11a

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Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 660 feet Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] FA:  Nate A., S.Kimball, 2005 Submitted By:  S. Kimball on Jun 30, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Undoubtedly parts of this 220 meter route has been climbed before, people wandering off Eumenides, Adrenaline etc., but it is totally independent and has escaped any description in all guidebooks beginning in 1970 with Walter Fricke. Ever so humbly, this is a route linked together after a look in 2004. Without putting my head in a noose, I say this is among Sundance's finest rockclimbs. Begin 30m left of Eumenides.

P1. Start up a clean corner to a roof with a nice V slot, handcrack. Aim towards a left-angling, left-facing dihedral. Near its top half, follow face and flakes out to the left past a girth hitched solid chickenhead. Continue with some 5.7 R face climbing to a large (Eumenides) ledge, 55 meters, 5.9.

P2. Angle left up easy open dihedral. Pass an unique natural arch, then a flared crack, to a small pillar draped with rapslings. Boldly go up 5.9+ R face, then hit larger holds climbing just left of a large clump of jamesia shrubs. The crux fingercrack is straight above, 5.11-. Save some go for the ending. Where the crack Ys, diagonal right (5.10 an a bit runout). Belay inside a classic, two person, sentry box, 55 meters.

P3. Climb right trending, twin cracks past 2 fixed pieces (not ours) 5.9. Nail an insecure 5.11- bulge. Fight past a bush (The President!) and into a major, left-facing, dihedral system. Belay on a good ledge after approximately 30 meters.

P4. Do 55 meters up this excellent, clean dihedral 5.9 and finish over a roof. 5. 20 meters of low 5th class to top. Best off, unrope and head toward summit begin curving NE-ward, but always well above exposed slabs, into the top of East Descent Gully.

Protection 

Standard: RPs to #3 Camalot, many runners.