This varied route is a first pitch that leads to a 2nd pitch (Lords of Karma- 12c). It's however, a very worthwhile jaunt in itself. It starts with easier pockets leading to a tricky traverse right and committing moves in the roof section as you move right to better holds(crux). A roof pull-over leads to easier finishing moves to the anchors.
The first sport route left of Made in the Shade and Split Image. Left of the crack line, A Desperate Man 5.9
Bolts (aprox. 5). Rap Anchors.
|By Bryson Slothower|
May 16, 2006
The bolt that protects the crux is difficult to clip until committed to the roof...bolt placement seems odd.
Put a long sling on the bolt below the roof unless you like rope drag.
Jun 20, 2006
I'm no fan of retrobolting, but this is the prime candidate at smith for it. it seems the bolts were thrown in randomly on rappel. great piece of stone, terrible fixed protection with the chance for some bad falls.
|By Corey McCarthy|
From: Redmond, OR
Nov 17, 2010
Not to sure about the previous posts, bolting is not bad by any means. pretty standard smith spacing. watch the first bolt, after that have fun. this is the best 10d i could ever imagine!
|By Max Tepfer|
From: Bend, OR
Nov 17, 2010
+1 for not dangerous. The first bolt is high, but the climbing to it felt reasonable to me... After that expect having to make moves above bolts, but the rock is bomber and the falls are clean.
|By Eric T.|
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Dec 5, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
I'd agree the falls aren't bad because I took a couple good ones. Cleaning the route if the second leads is a pain in the ass though.
|By Scott Becker|
From: Medford, Oregon
Jun 26, 2012
I can't believe how many times I've walked by this route without climbing it. Great climb. The only slightly sketchy part might be clipping the bolt below the roof (4th?) since you're on greasy edges and thin feet. This might be more trivial on a cooler day. Also, there are more bolts on this route than this page or the book shows, but it's easy to figure that out from the base of the route. Go do it!
May 12, 2013
if this is a 10d, i have to downgrade every other 10d i have done to 5.9, dont understand why its this hard for me, i totally lack some strength/technique or just didnt find the sequence to do the roof moves? there's a easy 5.10 move just above the 2nd bolt and then clip the bolt under the roof is insanely hard, making to the roof is not easy, over the roof is not easy, then move one move to the right is not easy, finally even the "easy" finish still feels like a balancy 5.10...
the bolt below the roof is hard to clip, really really hard... 6 bolts, not 5. not fun at all to clean on the way down...