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Hemingway Buttress

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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center) 
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)  
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right) 
Hemingway Buttress (West Face)  

Hemingway Buttress 


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Page Views: 105,758
Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
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Description 

Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.


Getting There 

Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.


Descent 

Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.


43 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',12],['5.10',12],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress:
White Lightning   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Dung Fu   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Coyote Bait   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Feltonian Physics   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Smoke-a-Bowl   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Overseer   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
For Whom the Poodle Tolls   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Golden Years   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Prepackaged   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Head Over Heals   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Poodles are People Too   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
The Importance of Being Ernest   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Scary Poodles   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Browse More Classics in Hemingway Buttress

Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress
Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.

Overseer 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Start up the hollow-sounding expando flake to gain the main crack above. After regaining composure, continue on 5.8 terrain that sucks up nuts until it is possible to cut up and out left onto steeper ground. This is the crux, and protects well with a .75 size cam. Pull through exciting and exposed crux and traverse left to easier ground. Gear anchor. To descend, walk to climber's right and rap from farther set of bolt anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Hemingway Buttress
Photos of Hemingway Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching darkness, Joshua Tree NP
Approaching darkness, Joshua Tree NP
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". <br />Photo by Blitzo
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu".
Photo by Blitz...
Looking out to the road from Hemingway
Looking out to the road from Hemingway
Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu", "White Lightning", and "Feltoneon Physics".
BETA PHOTO: Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu", "White...
Hemingway Buttress. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Hemingway Buttress.
Photo by Blitzo.
New climbing sign at Hemingway parking. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
New climbing sign at Hemingway parking.
Photo by B...
Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.
Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.
Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot
Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot
White Lightning (Center).
White Lightning (Center).
Comments on Hemingway Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2004

What's the deal with the house you can see from the top of Hemingway buttress across the road? Is it a private home? If so they are stoked!

By Blitzo
Mar 1, 2008

Anonymous Coward, that's the Cohn property. It's cool, lots of rock, but only a few of us are allowed to climb there. Everyone else will be shot at if they trespass. Look at it and drool, but don't go there!

By Murf
Oct 5, 2009

Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?

Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW.

By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 18, 2009

Hmm, so Murf was behind this, I should have figured. I find it very cumbersome to navigate all broken up.

By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 18, 2009

Don't forget the search feature which is a handy tool to help locate a route or area.