Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hemingway Buttress

Select Area...
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center) 
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)  
Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right) 
Hemingway Buttress (West Face)  

Hemingway Buttress  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.02394, -116.17787 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 118,662
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Reynolds on Jun 23, 2002
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.

Getting There 

Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.

Descent 

Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.2 miles from here

43 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',16],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',4],['5.8',9],['5.9',12],['5.10',12],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress:
White Lightning   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Dung Fu   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Feltonian Physics   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Smoke-a-Bowl   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
For Whom the Poodle Tolls   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Overseer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Golden Years   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Prepackaged   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Head Over Heals   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Poodles are People Too   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
The Importance of Being Ernest   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Scary Poodles   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
The Roadrunner   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Browse More Classics in Hemingway Buttress

Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress
DAS and Nestor

Head Over Heals 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
A great climb with a combination of fun gymnastic roof turning moves followed by a great hand/finger crack. Climb up a ramp to a bolt on the right side of the roof. There is a bolt there that you can clip by lying back on a flake. Be careful not to pull out on the flake as it is thin and hollow. If you are under 5'9" you may have trouble reaching it. Make sure your shoulders and hamstrings are in good shape for turning the roof. Using your leg to lever yourself up over the roof can be really hel...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Hemingway Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching darkness, Joshua Tree NP
Approaching darkness, Joshua Tree NP
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". Phot...
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". Phot...
Looking out to the road from Hemingway
Looking out to the road from Hemingway
Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu&quo...
BETA PHOTO: Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu&quo...
Hemingway Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
Hemingway Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
New climbing sign at Hemingway parking. Photo by B...
New climbing sign at Hemingway parking. Photo by B...
Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.
Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.
Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot
Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot
White Lightning (Center).
White Lightning (Center).

Comments on Hemingway Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2004
What's the deal with the house you can see from the top of Hemingway buttress across the road? Is it a private home? If so they are stoked!
By Blitzo
Mar 1, 2008
Anonymous Coward, that's the Cohn property. It's cool, lots of rock, but only a few of us are allowed to climb there. Everyone else will be shot at if they trespass. Look at it and drool, but don't go there!
By Murf
Oct 5, 2009
Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?

Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 18, 2009
Hmm, so Murf was behind this, I should have figured. I find it very cumbersome to navigate all broken up.
By C Miller
Administrator
Dec 18, 2009
Don't forget the search feature which is a handy tool to help locate a route or area.