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Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning (5.7), Overseer (5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.
Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.
Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress:
Poodles are People Too 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120' Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
The Importance of Being Ernest 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, 1 pitch, 80' Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress
Poodles are People Too 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
This climb is located towards the left end of the wall and lies just to the right of the obvious straight-in crack of White Lightning. This was the first of the many Poodle routes in Joshua Tree, and what it all means...well who knows, but this is a fabulous route. The lower (crux) section of the route is characterized by face climbing with small wires for pro. Not your ordinary clip-up, it makes you question how far you want to go off that last piece...higher, the difficulty eases until ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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