Hemingway Buttress Rock Climbing
Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning
(5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.
Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.
Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.
Weather station 10.2 miles from here
43 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',15],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Hemingway Buttress
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hemingway Buttress:
Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress
The Importance of Being Ernest 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longe...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Approaching darkness, Joshua Tree NP
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". Phot...
Looking out to the road from Hemingway
BETA PHOTO: Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu&quo...
Hemingway Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
New climbing sign at Hemingway parking. Photo by B...
Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.
Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot
White Lightning (Center).
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2004
What's the deal with the house you can see from the top of Hemingway buttress across the road? Is it a private home? If so they are stoked!
Mar 1, 2008
Anonymous Coward, that's the Cohn property. It's cool, lots of rock, but only a few of us are allowed to climb there. Everyone else will be shot at if they trespass. Look at it and drool, but don't go there!
Oct 5, 2009
Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?
Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW.
By Ryan Kelly
Dec 18, 2009
Hmm, so Murf was behind this, I should have figured. I find it very cumbersome to navigate all broken up.
By C Miller
Dec 18, 2009
Don't forget the search feature which is a handy tool to help locate a route or area.