Hemingway Buttress Rock Climbing
Hemingway is the large rock closest to the main park road in the Lost Horse area. Most of the climbs are on the east side of the buttress, so it can be a nice place to climb when it's hot out. Lots of great climbs, and most are fairly steep with great holds. Favorites include White Lightning
(5.9), as well as a bunch of fun routes with "Poodle" in the name.
Hemingway is close the the intersection of the main park road and the Lost Horse road. Now that the NPS has redone the road, there's a parking area on the side of the main road labelled "Hemingway Rock." It's just east of the Lost Horse Road. Park there and head south, a couple hundred yards to the first large rock.
Two bolted rap routes: one near the top of White Lightning requires two ropes, a 70m, or some down-scrambling at the bottom; the other is further west and gets you all the way down on a single rope.
Weather station 10.2 miles from here
49 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Hemingway Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hemingway Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hemingway Buttress:
Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress
Head Over Heals 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
A great climb with a combination of fun gymnastic roof turning moves followed by a great hand/finger crack. Climb up a ramp to a bolt on the right side of the roof. There is a bolt there that you can clip by lying back on a flake. Be careful not to pull out on the flake as it is thin and hollow. If you are under 5'9" you may have trouble reaching it. Make sure your shoulders and hamstrings are in good shape for turning the roof. Using your leg to lever yourself up over the roof can be really hel...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
Steve Gerberding soloing "Dung Fu". Phot...
Looking out to the road from Hemingway
New climbing sign at Hemingway parking. Photo by B...
Hemingway Wall from the Parking Lot
BETA PHOTO: Hemingway Buttress. From L to R: "Dung Fu&quo...
Hemingway Buttress. Photo by Blitzo.
White Lightning (Center).
Approaching darkness, Joshua Tree NP
Display at the Hemingway parking lot, JTNP.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 20, 2004
What's the deal with the house you can see from the top of Hemingway buttress across the road? Is it a private home? If so they are stoked!
Mar 1, 2008
Anonymous Coward, that's the Cohn property. It's cool, lots of rock, but only a few of us are allowed to climb there. Everyone else will be shot at if they trespass. Look at it and drool, but don't go there!
Oct 5, 2009
Hemingway seems very cumbersome as currently laid out. Anyone else in favor of splitting into a minimum of West Face, East Face Left (RoadRunner through Death in the Afternoon ), and East Face Right(Scary Poodles to Raven DNTTMB)? Maybe even split the East face into three section?
Thanks Chris, I like how it is laid out like JTW.
By Ryan Kelly
Dec 18, 2009
Hmm, so Murf was behind this, I should have figured. I find it very cumbersome to navigate all broken up.
By C Miller
Dec 18, 2009
Don't forget the search feature which is a handy tool to help locate a route or area.