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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm T 
Coyote Bait T 
Dung Fu T 
Feltonian Physics T 
Funky Dung T 
Golden Years T 
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 
Overseer T 
Pig in Heat T 
Poodles are People Too T 
Poodlesby T 
Prepackaged T 
Roadrunner, The T 
Rock Wren T 
Smoke-a-Bowl T 
Such a Poodle T 
White Lightning T 

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)  


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.02386, -116.17782 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,545
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 5, 2009
Forecast:
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Clear
94° | 69°
Clear
93° | 69°
Clear
93° | 70°
Clear
90° | 68°
Chance of Rain
89° | 69°
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Eric cruising White Lightning

Description 

This popular section of the wall extends from More Funky than Junky to The Sun Also Rises and is home to lots of moderate crack routes with a few face climbs in the harder grades. Some of the better routes here include White Lightning (5.7), Dung Fu (5.7), Feltonian Physics (5.8), Overseer (5.9), Rock Wren (5.10a), Prepackaged (5.10a), Poodles are People Too (5.10b) and The Roadrunner (5.11c).

Routes from left to right:

More Funky than Junky (5.10a)
The Roadrunner (5.11c)
Smoke-a-Bowl (5.9)
Rock Wren (5.10a)
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie (5.8)
Merry-Go-Round Broke Down (5.8)
Funky Dung (5.8)
Overseer (5.9)
Dung Fu (5.7)
Pig in Heat (5.10b R)
White Lightning (5.7)
Poodles are People Too (5.10b)
Man's Best Friend (5.9 TR)
Poodlesby (5.6)
Coyote Bait (5.7)
Such a Poodle (5.8+ R)
Golden Years (5.9+)
Feltonian Physics (5.8)
Gift Wrapped (5.10d TR)
Prepackaged (5.10a)
The Sun Also Rises (5.12b)



Getting There 

Park in the large paved lot off the main road and follow the signed path to the wall. The approach time is around 10 minutes from the car.


Climbing Season


17 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) :
White Lightning   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Dung Fu   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Coyote Bait   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Feltonian Physics   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Smoke-a-Bowl   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Overseer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Golden Years   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Prepackaged   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Poodles are People Too   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Starting up Poodles are People Too!

Poodles are People Too 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
This climb is located towards the left end of the wall and lies just to the right of the obvious straight-in crack of White Lightning. This was the first of the many Poodle routes in Joshua Tree, and what it all means...well who knows, but this is a fabulous route. The lower (crux) section of the route is characterized by face climbing with small wires for pro. Not your ordinary clip-up, it makes you question how far you want to go off that last piece...higher, the difficulty eases until ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Local Information for Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Photos of Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) Slideshow Add Photo
Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.
Geoff at the crux. He was kind enough not to plac...
Moving through the crimpy lower section. <br />Photo by Valarie Heredia
Moving through the crimpy lower section.
Photo by ...
Nic at the big foot rest
Nic at the big foot rest
Starting up Poodles are People Too!
Starting up Poodles are People Too!
"Prepackaged". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Prepackaged".
Photo by Blitzo.
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