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DescriptionThis popular section of the wall extends from More Funky than Junky to The Sun Also Rises and is home to lots of moderate crack routes with a few face climbs in the harder grades. Some of the better routes here include White Lightning (5.7), Dung Fu (5.7), Feltonian Physics (5.8), Overseer (5.9), Rock Wren (5.10a), Prepackaged (5.10a), Poodles are People Too (5.10b) and The Roadrunner (5.11c). Getting TherePark in the large paved lot off the main road and follow the signed path to the wall. The approach time is around 10 minutes from the car. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) :
White Lightning 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Dung Fu 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Coyote Bait 5.7+ Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Feltonian Physics 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Smoke-a-Bowl 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Overseer 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Golden Years 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Prepackaged 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Poodles are People Too 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet
The Roadrunner 5.11c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Poodles are People Too 5.10b CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
This climb is located towards the left end of the wall and lies just to the right of the obvious straight-in crack of White Lightning. This was the first of the many Poodle routes in Joshua Tree, and what it all means...well who knows, but this is a fabulous route. The lower (crux) section of the route is characterized by face climbing with small wires for pro. Not your ordinary clip-up, it makes you question how far you want to go off that last piece...higher, the difficulty eases until ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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