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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm T 
Coyote Bait T 
Dung Fu T 
Feltonian Physics T 
Funky Dung T 
Golden Years T 
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 
Overseer T 
Pig in Heat T 
Poodles are People Too T 
Poodlesby T 
Prepackaged T 
Roadrunner, The T 
Rock Wren T 
Smoke-a-Bowl T 
Such a Poodle T 
White Lightning T 

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.02386, -116.17782 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,554
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 5, 2009
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Description 

This popular section of the wall extends from More Funky than Junky to The Sun Also Rises and is home to lots of moderate crack routes with a few face climbs in the harder grades. Some of the better routes here include White Lightning (5.7), Dung Fu (5.7), Feltonian Physics (5.8), Overseer (5.9), Rock Wren (5.10a), Prepackaged (5.10a), Poodles are People Too (5.10b) and The Roadrunner (5.11c).

Routes from left to right:

More Funky than Junky (5.10a)
The Roadrunner (5.11c)
Smoke-a-Bowl (5.9)
Rock Wren (5.10a)
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie (5.8)
Merry-Go-Round Broke Down (5.8)
Funky Dung (5.8)
Overseer (5.9)
Dung Fu (5.7)
Pig in Heat (5.10b R)
White Lightning (5.7)
Poodles are People Too (5.10b)
Man's Best Friend (5.9 TR)
Poodlesby (5.6)
Coyote Bait (5.7)
Such a Poodle (5.8+ R)
Golden Years (5.9+)
Feltonian Physics (5.8)
Gift Wrapped (5.10d TR)
Prepackaged (5.10a)
The Sun Also Rises (5.12b)



Getting There 

Park in the large paved lot off the main road and follow the signed path to the wall. The approach time is around 10 minutes from the car.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.2 miles from here

17 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) :
White Lightning   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Dung Fu   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Coyote Bait   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Feltonian Physics   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Smoke-a-Bowl   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Overseer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Golden Years   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Prepackaged   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Poodles are People Too   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Browse More Classics in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.

Overseer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
Start up the hollow-sounding expando flake to gain the main crack above. After regaining composure, continue on 5.8 terrain that sucks up nuts until it is possible to cut up and out left onto steeper ground. This is the crux, and protects well with a .75 size cam. Pull through exciting and exposed crux and traverse left to easier ground. Gear anchor. To descend, walk to climber's right and rap from farther set of bolt anchors....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) Slideshow Add Photo
Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to place any pro on the standard start so I could enjoy a top rope for the direct start.
Geoff at the crux. He was kind enough not to plac...
Moving through the crimpy lower section. <br />Photo by Valarie Heredia
Moving through the crimpy lower section.
Photo by ...
Nic at the big foot rest
Nic at the big foot rest
Starting up Poodles are People Too!
Starting up Poodles are People Too!
"Prepackaged". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
"Prepackaged".
Photo by Blitzo.

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