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help with shoes!

Original Post
Cassidy Willis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

I'm looking to step up my climbing shoes from the entry level Evolv Elektra which I plan to retire just for gym use. I climb mostly sport mid-10s now so I don't need anything overly aggressive, but I would like better edging, responsive for slabs and comfortable enough for multi-pitch.

I went into a store hoping to fit a Katana or Anasazi but I had heel gap in both. I tried on almost every shoe in both men's and women's sizes and nothing fit quite right because I have low volume, narrow heel and a wide forefoot. There was a lot of gap in the heel and too much volume with the men's sizes, and the women's were too narrow in the toe. I also have a bunion which is painful with anything too tight. I thought lace-ups might be good to dial in the fit but the Mythos was the only thing that fit comfortably and they felt a bit soft. The Scarpa Force-X was like a slipper but might be too comfortable/similar to current shoes, especially if I can't size down in them. Any ladies out there have similar issues and can recommend a good intermediate shoe? I am wondering if flat lasted shoes are all going to be similar in performance and I should just go for comfort. I wish I could handle a cambered shoe but I'm not that hardcore yet :-)

Jon Frisby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 270

Scarpa Vapor V might work depending on how the heel works for you

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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