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help with finger/hand injury
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Apr 15, 2012
poking out of the crash pad
I was recently down in Bishop, CA for a bouldering trip. I just drove out from the east coast so I have not had a whole lot of experience pulling on small pockets. I was climbing on Tuff in the tablelands and happened to hurt my hand pretty badly.

I was on a problem that involved a big deadpoint to a tiny pocket, and then a bump up to a bigger, more positive pocket. I made the move up to the better pocket, and then my foot slipped off, putting way more force onto my hand than I expected. I popped off, and my hand took all of the weight of my body as my legs kicked off too.

I immediately noticed pain right at the base of my hand where the hand joins my wrist. I thought after a few days the pain would subside and I would be all set to resume climbing. Unfortunately, I notice this pain in my wrist even when I am not climbing.

Are there any exercises I can do to help rehabilitate my hand? I havent' been climbing for about a month, and I am concerned that I still feel pain in the center of my wrist. Any help would be very appreciated, thanks!
From North Bend, OR
Joined Mar 28, 2006
1,233 points
Apr 15, 2012
25' drop...wheeeeee!
This is definitely the kind of situation that they made orthopedists for. You don't want to risk having a screwed up wrist long term.

When considering the medical costs (if uninsured) just ask yourself what it's worth to you to have a fully functional hand.
From Portland, OR
Joined May 5, 2011
114 points
Apr 15, 2012
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
Wholeheartedly recommend seeing a orthopedist. I hurt my wrist trying Loaded Direct in Hueco, and I went to an ortho after a week of pain without climbing. Turns out I likely have a TFCC tear (ulnar-side cartilage). Without the orthopedist it would likely have not healed on its own and I could have seriously screwed up my wrist. I'm a couple weeks into the process and, while not climbing sucks, it is way better than not having a fully functional hand. Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 14, 2011
377 points
Apr 15, 2012
Fun jump move to start Reckless Abandon, Summersvi...
It sounds like a lumbrical injury...I have done something like that but at Red River Gorge (pocket city?)

I avoided that specific way of pulling on pockets, and you should get better if other gripping positions don't hurt.
Philip Lutz
From Akron/Oberlin, Ohio
Joined Jun 25, 2010
191 points
Apr 15, 2012
Me and Spearhead
Definitely see a pro-fessional if it's not getting much better after 4wks.
If the pain is in your wrist it's most likely a torn carpal ligament or perhaps as Alex suggests a torn TFCC.
Either way, neither of those structures are going to heal on their own, you're pretty much looking at a surgical fix if that's the problem.

I figure it's better to know and get on the road to recovery now.
good luck
Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Joined Oct 20, 2007
143 points
Apr 17, 2012
poking out of the crash pad
other gripping positions don't hurt, and I only seem to feel it when I really look for it. It feels like it may be getting better but I am going to the doctor just in case.. thanks for your help cstorms
From North Bend, OR
Joined Mar 28, 2006
1,233 points
Apr 17, 2012
The Monastery
I had this same thing happen to me this weekend. I have been icing it the past couple days, but it continues to be pretty sensitive. I will probably wait a few weeks and if it still hurts, I will go to the doctor after that. Jake Carroll
From The Springs
Joined Nov 15, 2008
195 points

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