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help with finger/hand injury
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By cstorms
From North Bend, OR
Apr 15, 2012
poking out of the crash pad

I was recently down in Bishop, CA for a bouldering trip. I just drove out from the east coast so I have not had a whole lot of experience pulling on small pockets. I was climbing on Tuff in the tablelands and happened to hurt my hand pretty badly.

I was on a problem that involved a big deadpoint to a tiny pocket, and then a bump up to a bigger, more positive pocket. I made the move up to the better pocket, and then my foot slipped off, putting way more force onto my hand than I expected. I popped off, and my hand took all of the weight of my body as my legs kicked off too.

I immediately noticed pain right at the base of my hand where the hand joins my wrist. I thought after a few days the pain would subside and I would be all set to resume climbing. Unfortunately, I notice this pain in my wrist even when I am not climbing.

Are there any exercises I can do to help rehabilitate my hand? I havent' been climbing for about a month, and I am concerned that I still feel pain in the center of my wrist. Any help would be very appreciated, thanks!


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By JesseT
From Portland, OR
Apr 15, 2012
25' drop...wheeeeee!

This is definitely the kind of situation that they made orthopedists for. You don't want to risk having a screwed up wrist long term.

When considering the medical costs (if uninsured) just ask yourself what it's worth to you to have a fully functional hand.


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By Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Apr 15, 2012

Wholeheartedly recommend seeing a orthopedist. I hurt my wrist trying Loaded Direct in Hueco, and I went to an ortho after a week of pain without climbing. Turns out I likely have a TFCC tear (ulnar-side cartilage). Without the orthopedist it would likely have not healed on its own and I could have seriously screwed up my wrist. I'm a couple weeks into the process and, while not climbing sucks, it is way better than not having a fully functional hand.


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By Philip Lutz
From Akron/Oberlin, Ohio
Apr 15, 2012
Fun jump move to start Reckless Abandon, Summersville Lake.

It sounds like a lumbrical injury...I have done something like that but at Red River Gorge (pocket city?)

I avoided that specific way of pulling on pockets, and you should get better if other gripping positions don't hurt.


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By Brent Apgar
From Out of the Loop
Apr 15, 2012
Me and Spearhead

Definitely see a pro-fessional if it's not getting much better after 4wks.
If the pain is in your wrist it's most likely a torn carpal ligament or perhaps as Alex suggests a torn TFCC.
Either way, neither of those structures are going to heal on their own, you're pretty much looking at a surgical fix if that's the problem.

I figure it's better to know and get on the road to recovery now.
good luck


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By cstorms
From North Bend, OR
Apr 17, 2012
poking out of the crash pad

other gripping positions don't hurt, and I only seem to feel it when I really look for it. It feels like it may be getting better but I am going to the doctor just in case.. thanks for your help


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By Jake Carroll
From Fort Collins
Apr 17, 2012
The Monastery

I had this same thing happen to me this weekend. I have been icing it the past couple days, but it continues to be pretty sensitive. I will probably wait a few weeks and if it still hurts, I will go to the doctor after that.


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