Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Shortoff Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Appalachain Chuffer 
Appalachain Runt 
Between The Lines 
Big Arete, The 
Bonsai 
Built to Tilt 
Change Up 
Comfortably Numb 
Construction Job 
Dancing Outlaw, The 
Desp-arete 
Dopey Duck 
Early Times 
Energizer 
Enterprise, The 
False Paradise 
Finders Keepers 
Fly By 
Footloose 
For The Birds 
Full Tilt Boogie 
Golden Rule 
Help Mr. Wizard 
Humdinger 
Julia 
Just Another Pretty Face 
Last Straw, The 
Learning to fly 
Little Corner 
Lost and Found 
Made in the shade 
Maginot Line 
Maginot Roof 
Paradise Alley 
Paradise City 
Paradise Lost 
Pinball Wizard 
Saddle Up 
Sleight of Hand 
Stopperhead Arete 
Straight and Narrow 
Supercrack  
Trick Or Treat 
Turn and Burn 
Twist of fate 
White Corner 
White Russians Gone Bananas 
Unsorted Routes:

Help Mr. Wizard 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lyle Dean, Kitty Calhoun FFA Jim Okel, Tom Howard, Thomas Kelly
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Mar 14, 2011
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
A great climb.

photo courtesy of Bruce Burgess

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

  • Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>
  • 2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    I almost had to ask Mr. Wizard for help......almost.

    Another great Shortoff classic! Climb the juggy face up to the crack. Clip an old pin and crank the burly/bouldery moves to a great stance and better gear. Finish up a wonderfully sustained and steep 5.8+ crack to a comfy belay ledge. Belay on natural gear.

    To get off, you can finish on Maginot Line or Big Arete.


    Location 

    Starts right of Maginot Line about 30 ft, beneath a steep face with a crack.


    Protection 

    small to medium hybid cams, small to medium nuts, camalots .4 to 3(double .5 to 1 helpful but not neccessary), black tricam for the starting move to the jug, belay takes small to medium tcus



    Comments on Help Mr. Wizard Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By sanz
    From: Raleigh, NC
    Nov 5, 2012

    We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta?

    By Robert Hutchins
    Jan 3, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

    It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though.

    By Neil Rankin
    From: Greensboro, NC
    Apr 22, 2013
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13

    A really pretty line, but it's a fairly serious lead. Get pro where you can going to the pin. A yellow master cam / alien is useful.