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Shortoff Mountain
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Unsorted Routes:

Help Mr. Wizard 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lyle Dean, Kitty Calhoun FFA Jim Okel, Tom Howard, Thomas Kelly
Page Views: 930
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Mar 14, 2011
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A great climb.

photo courtesy of Bruce Burgess

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  • Description 

    I almost had to ask Mr. Wizard for help......almost.

    Another great Shortoff classic! Climb the juggy face up to the crack. Clip an old pin and crank the burly/bouldery moves to a great stance and better gear. Finish up a wonderfully sustained and steep 5.8+ crack to a comfy belay ledge. Belay on natural gear.

    To get off, you can finish on Maginot Line or Big Arete.


    Starts right of Maginot Line about 30 ft, beneath a steep face with a crack.


    small to medium hybid cams, small to medium nuts, camalots .4 to 3(double .5 to 1 helpful but not neccessary), black tricam for the starting move to the jug, belay takes small to medium tcus

    Comments on Help Mr. Wizard Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By sanz
    From: Raleigh, NC
    Nov 5, 2012

    We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta?

    By Robert Hutchins
    Jan 3, 2013
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

    It's been several years since I've done this (>decade?), but my recollection is that you can't get any good gear that keeps you from taking a nasty fall at the start. I think you can get some head gear with steel nut or ball-nut, but you are basically bouldering up to get the gear over bulge. Kind of a 9+/10a placement, if I remember. The gear you get over the bulge for the crux is great though.

    By Neil Rankin
    From: Greensboro, NC
    Apr 22, 2013
    rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13

    A really pretty line, but it's a fairly serious lead. Get pro where you can going to the pin. A yellow master cam / alien is useful.