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Help Me Mr. Wizard 
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Unsorted Routes:

Help Me Mr. Wizard 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Stan Mish, Jim Waugh, and Herb North Jr., 1978
Page Views: 1,822
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006
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Asking for help from the wizard
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Description 

As you are gazing up at the Classic, Said and Done, or Reunion, drift ever so slightly left and check out the giant flake splitter that defines Help me Mr. Wizard. This is an exciting pitch which will test nerves and staying power alike. It is PG mostly. Climb crack up to a point where there is a little roof. This section is kind of spicy if I remember correctly. The gear under the wee roof is saucy as well, though it has been personally tested. Climb out the roof around right to reach the splitter section to a small rest stance. Resist the temptation to layback the next section. Climbing it straight on like a splitter is the way to go. Better gear through this section. Eventually you will find yourself at a jug and burly mantle, in that order. Continue up the short slab to a fixed anchor.


Location 

Left side of the Flying Buttress between Reunion and Said and Done.


Protection 

Many small, medium cams, wires, and a runner or two.



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By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Dec 8, 2006

I remember a dyno from the disappearing crack to get to the jug. Ouch, that was the place I asked for Mr. Wizard's help.

By phil broscovak
Jan 2, 2007

Stan "the Banditto" Mish did the BURLY FA back in the latter 70s or early 80s.

By Paul Davidson
Nov 13, 2008

Just an excellent testament to Sr. Stan's ability. (And I believe the name came from the throw to the mantle.)

By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 17, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Sustained! I found the crux to be pulling from under the low roof into the upper crack. Ok rest there, then fire to the top. Gear is hard to place and can be spooky as the flake flares- definately tests staying power- both mental and physical. Green aliens and #1 BD C3s are helpful. Offset aliens would probably work as well.

By Bobby Treadwell
From: Prescott, AZ
Oct 31, 2012

Spectacular and sustained. This line is one of the best on granite mountain.