Help Me Mr. Wizard  5.11c

1,555 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Stan Mish, Jim Waugh, and Herb North Jr., 1978 Submitted By:  JJ Schlick on Nov 13, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Asking for help from the wizard

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Falcon closures. MORE INFO >>> Granite Mountain is closed between early February and mid-July for peregrine falcon nesting! More info: www.fs.fed.us/r3/prescott/news/2009/01-22-2009-area-closures>>> This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

As you are gazing up at the Classic, Said and Done, or Reunion, drift ever so slightly left and check out the giant flake splitter that defines Help me Mr. Wizard. This is an exciting pitch which will test nerves and staying power alike. It is PG mostly. Climb crack up to a point where there is a little roof. This section is kind of spicy if I remember correctly. The gear under the wee roof is saucy as well, though it has been personally tested. Climb out the roof around right to reach the splitter section to a small rest stance. Resist the temptation to layback the next section. Climbing it straight on like a splitter is the way to go. Better gear through this section. Eventually you will find yourself at a jug and burly mantle, in that order. Continue up the short slab to a fixed anchor.

Location 

Left side of the Flying Buttress between Reunion and Said and Done.

Protection 

Many small, medium cams, wires, and a runner or two.