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help a kiddo choose protection

Original Post
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35

Hello mighty climbers and gear experts. I'm a 14 year old boy from Norway looking to buy my self some cams. in Norway confirmation is a big deal with a big celebration and i'm gonna rack in $4000. Im going to New York and washington DC this summer and going to spend the money om rock climbing gear.

So my quistions is this:

Best cams for hard granite which is normal in norway. Looking at black diamond c4 and x4. Even the master cams. Price is not relevant.

Best nuts and what passive protection i should get.

Come with your recommendations on what gear you think I will need. Please consider that almost all rock in Norway is hard quality granite. Will gladly take any advice on everything not only protection.

Thanks for all replies.
Fabian

sarcasm · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 445

buy a set of c4s, x4s and BD stoppers used for less then $600
spend the rest of the money on pornography and marijuana.
welcome to america.

Ryan Maitland · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 10

pretty solid advice, oddly enough.

Andrew Williams · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

I prefer my DMM Dragons over the BD C4's. To me they are a better built product and everything is made in house at their own facility. Though BD is bringing their production back to the USA from China. But my preference is for DMM stuff.

The new Mastercams look pretty good. I have mastercams and Wild Country Zeros, the zeros are great micro cams.

Just got some DMM wallnuts, haven't had a chance to use them yet but they are nice. So maybe those and the offset alloys. Also can't go wrong with the standard BD stoppers.

Mike Marmar · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 67

This is weird and I have so many questions.

To start, does everyone in Norway have such an awesome name?

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

1. go to a rock climbing area on yr trip

2. hire an accredited guide who has a shietload of experience

3. learn from that guide as much as you can

4. bribe experienced and safe climbers with beer to take you out ... theyll have an assortment of gear you can try

5. go and buy the gear you like best

youve got more than enuff moolah for that

the knowledge and experience of how to use the gear properly is worth much more than any small difference between good brands

;)

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 277

BD C4s size 0.4 to 6
Totem Basic, full set
Totem Basic Hybrid (offset), full set

DMM aluminum offset nuts, full set
BD offset micro stoppers, full set

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

The scent of troll is strong in this one.

mediocre · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 0

Off topic, but "Lilyhamer" on Netflix takes place in Norway, pretty good series.
I like the advice about porn and weed too.

Who the f** gives a 14 year old 4 grand? JFC

Creed Archibald · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,016

I kind of think this is a troll. Either way, sarcasm totally nailed it.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Have you rock climbed yet?

ANGUS WIESSNER · · Denver Colorad · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,613

Full set off totem cams
Full set off totem basic aliens
And totem basic offset cams
Totem are the new hottest cam I think and are sold at rei
If price is no issue these are the best next to black diamond maybe a mixture

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

Someone once told me that in some Asian countries it's a big thing to walk down sidewalks with tons of climbing gear on—like a fashion thing. I guess the chicks dig sidewalk rock climbers or something. I wonder if that's what is going on here.

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Do not buy regular nuts... with the technology of offset nuts they are almost obsolete. But the 5 dmm offsets, should be all you need.

You can get micros in either the dmm peanuts or brass, but you won't place many of either of those. Also, a pink tricam is a really handy piece of lightweight gear to add to the 5 nuts you are carrying

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
JeffL wrote:Do not buy regular nuts... with the technology of offset nuts they are almost obsolete. But the 5 dmm offsets, should be all you need. You can get micros in either the dmm peanuts or brass, but you won't place many of either of those. Also, a pink tricam is a really handy piece of lightweight gear to add to the 5 nuts you are carrying
There are plenty of scenarios where offsets wont work well. I have been using regular nuts for nearly 8 years and aside from routes that have pin scars I have never found myself saying "shit, if only I had offsets here. Nothing else works!"
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

Agree with the above, it should be noted that I try my hardest not to place nuts because they usually take more time to place and to clean than a cam would. Not always the case, when I first started leading on gear, I placed a lot of nuts. Now I avoid them and have found that offsets work in the same constriction as a traditional nut, as well as many more placements. But I climb flaring granite and sandstone mostly

Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
RMS wrote:The scent of troll is strong in this one.
Im not a troll. Just wondering what veterans would bring if to climb granite.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
Mike Marmar wrote:This is weird and I have so many questions. To start, does everyone in Norway have such an awesome name?
Yes we got cool names. Thank you. Just come with your questions.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
FrankPS wrote:Have you rock climbed yet?
Yes i onsight 5.10 at the moment.
Trondheim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 35
20 kN wrote:Someone once told me that in some Asian countries it's a big thing to walk down sidewalks with tons of climbing gear on—like a fashion thing. I guess the chicks dig sidewalk rock climbers or something. I wonder if that's what is going on here.
No goddamit.
FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Fabian Kolbergsrud Espeland wrote: No goddamit.
For a Norwegian 14-year old, you speak very good gutter English.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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