|(2) Middle Earth
Pretty sustained, somewhat pumpy and not terribly technical, this route is a good way to get the blood flowing and get warmed up for the rest of your day.
The classic way to start this route is to simply step out over the gap from the comfortable belay ledge to the wall and start climbing, but if you screw it up you'll fall on the horrible impaling tree stump six feet down. If that seems too sketchy you can always start to the left and traverse to the first bolt.
If I had to pick out a crux I'd say it's between the second and third bolts, but frankly it's all pretty similar. Good rail-pulls the whole way up and a very slight overhang make for a solid, sustained route.
Look for a line of bolts above a gap between the wall and the rock promontory--that's Helm's Deep.
Every time I've led this I've done so on just the bolts, but apparently there is a gear placement near the top someplace. I've never felt like I was running it out or that gear was necessary though.
If anyone knows where/what type of gear to place I'll be happy to update this.
Oct 20, 2010
I bring .5 and 2 inch black diamond cams. I forget exactly what goes where, but they go in horizontals around 2/3 or 3/4 up the route. They are bomber placements, not near bolts, and helpful if you don't have this climb or this grade wired.
|By Eric Schnepel|
Feb 4, 2011
Solid warm-up. Purple and gold BDs fit perfectly in a couple horizontal slots between the 4th and 5th bolt. The gold is almost unnecessary however, as it is placed within 1 or 2 moves of a bolt. Wouldn't be terrible to lead this without gear if you are solid at the grade.
|By Colin Parker|
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
I felt this route goes comfortably with just the BD .5 in the obvious horizontal b/w bolts 4 and 5. In addition, you can start the route from the ground below the step across. There are a few sidepull flakes that help you get started and then you can traverse left to the first bolt. As for the crux, there's a bouldery move near the 2nd bolt that is the greatest challenge for most people, especially those with limited reach.