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Helmet Buttress 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,764
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Sep 2, 2008
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top of helmet buttress at table rock.
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  • Description 

    P1: Climb up the right-facing corner. Then traverse right and up to the vegetated ledge. Walk right along the ledge to belay at bolts and rings. (75 feet)

    P2&3: Climb straight up from the belay. Trend slightly left around the overhang above, clipping a fixed piton. Continue up the obvious weakness, past short cracks and a bolt. Belay at bolts and rings on the lower-angled terrain above (belay sometimes wet), or continue along easier climbing to bolts and rings at the left end of the Lunch Ledge. Most parties combine pitch 2&3. (150 feet)


    Location 

    On the east face of Table Rock. Heading left from the Ellie Raynolds Memorial Buttress (a large buttress with a wide slot on the left side), the first right-facing corner system you come to is Slippin' Into Darkness(5.9), on the right edge of the Helmet Buttress. Continue around the Helmet Buttress to the left to a shorter, lower-angled right facing corner. This is the start of the Helmet Buttress route.


    Protection 

    standard rack, top of each pitch has bolted anchors & rap rings



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    By Coz Teplitz
    From: Watertown, MA
    Oct 25, 2008

    I actually think this is a decent route - worth a few stars at least. I like P1 quite a bit, and the moves up to and just past the pin on P2 I find quite enjoyable.

    Two warnings: (1) the pin on P2 may or may not be in place. A smaller cam (maybe tips-size) easily backs up the pin, so you can get the gear if it's not. (2) The traverse on P1 is a little runout; people have been known to slip off and then fall back into the corner - ouch. There are a few ways of doing this traverse, though, and one of them is reasonably protected. If you are uncomfortable with the gear, look around and be creative.

    By Josh Gray
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 2, 2009

    Pulled off a brick sized block from the overhang on the first pitch before the route goes right. There is some orange rotten rock on this route. Its not called the helmet buttress for no reason!

    By CBraund
    Nov 12, 2012

    Caution: I think the traverse move above the fixed pin is now much harder than 5.6 as holds may be gone. The crack ends at a short headwall and I've fallen twice on sloping feet without much for hands while attempting to make the traverse. The fixed nut protects well, but the swinging fall isn't real clean.

    By Jonathan Dull
    From: NC High County
    Jul 15, 2013
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

    Didn't see a fixed pin or stopper as mentioned in the previous comment. However, I did find a great placement for an offset master cam (#3/4 I think) and tiny flake for a small brass (DMM purple) to protect before the traverse. Like many Table Rock slab sections its easy to make the slab traverse more difficult than it really is; I did. Overall a fun climb with the traverse keeping you on your toes; pun intended. Wouldn't recommend this climb for a blooming 5.6 or 5.7 leader (tricky gear where it counts the most).