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Overhang Area
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2 Ways 2 Hell 
Another Unnamed Billy Bob Route 
Beer Barrel Buttress 
Beer Drinkers and Hell Raisers 
Beer Pong 
Chicken Dance 
Crack to Chimney 
Fabulous Flying Carrs Route, The 
Ground Doesn't Lie, The 
Half and Half 2 
Handle This Hard On! 
Hellbound II 
Here Today Gone Tomorrow 
Hippy School 
In Between the Lines 
Mr. Coors Contributes to the Pink Stain 
Mr. Peery Take A Bow 
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut 
Mrs. Hen Places a Peck 
Natural Fact 
Off Line 
Pack 'o Bobs 
Plumber's Crack, The 
Routefinding 101 
Smear Me A Beer 
This Ain't Naturita, Pilgrim 
Toast & Jam? 
Top Rope Face 
Tora, Tora, Tora 
Toura Obscura 
War With A Rack 
What Line? 
Wholly Holey 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 286
Submitted By: Jay Eggleston on Feb 1, 2010
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Crack hell.
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>


This felt hard for the 5.9 grade given in the Haas and Schneider guide. The crux is the hand and fist crack. Some holds to the left on Chicken Dance help in the crux region. It is funny to use holds on a 5.12 to ease passage on a 5.9, but it seems like it would be much harder to jam the deep crack directly. Once in the chimney above the crack, move left to the anchor.


Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Double #3s for the squeamish. Use the Chicken Dance anchor to the left to get down.


This is the crack immediately to the right of Chicken Dance. The crack starts in a left-facing dihedral. The business starts from a nice ledge about 20' up. Here a hand and fist crack is set deep into the corner. It widens to a chimney above. Descend from the hooks on Chicken Dance.

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Entering the crux section.
Entering the crux section.
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