Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: John Langston
Page Views: 3,335 total · 18/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Mar 22, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This looks like it might be a good trad route. Closer inspection reveals lots of extra bolts. If you are a limp old man, looking to get up, this is the route for you.

Per Mark Rolofson: John Langston attempted to establish the route on lead drilling 2 bolts on aid. Then below the next to last bolt on Pretzel Logic, he fell pulling pro from breaking rock. To finish, he swung over to Pretzel Logic & finished up that line. He returned to clean, inspect pro, & top rope the route. He removed one of his own bolts & did not clip the bolts on Pretzel Logic (the first 2 & the last 2) on his headpoint ascent. He later removed the bolts on Pretzel Logic that he skipped, moving the 2nd bolt left & creating a new finish named Defective Agency. I later returned to replace the first bolt & the last 2 bolts on Pretzel Logic. It was there first. Even with these bolts, this route is still serious & should not be underestimated. I would NOT bring just stoppers. A few Aliens seem necessary, especially a red past the crux bolt with #5-6 micro stopper to protect hard moves to reach the next to last bolt on PL.

Location Suggest change

It's obvious. This is a crack line that looks easier than it is with a bolt in the middle. The bolts at the bottom and top were added as a remedy for old men with ED (EverygoddamnedpieceofrockIseeismine Dysfunction).

Protection Suggest change

Floppy quickdraws and a flacid nut or two.

Per Kirk Miller: the bolts at the top and the bottom were placed before Viagra Crack was cleaned or climbed. All but one were removed when this route was climbed, then they were replaced since they were part of its neighbor, Pretzel Logic.

Per Mark Rolofson: bolt, Aliens, & microstoppers.

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