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Devil's Castle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Streak T 
Bush Bullshit S 
Des Teufel's Bollwerk T 
Dick Cheese Ball Cheney S 
Evil Eye T 
Gothic Miller S 
Gothic Pillar T 
Hellevator Shaft T 
Horns Of Satan T 
Political Prisioner S 
Portable Darkness T 
Shadow of the Blade T 

Hellevator Shaft 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Alan Sanderson & Brian Smoot, Aug. 2009
New Route: Yes
Season: summer
Page Views: 553
Submitted By: bsmoot on Aug 15, 2009

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Route location. We approached from above.

Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation

Description 

Hellevator Shaft ascends the prominent offwidth/chimney system when viewed from the west.

Pitch 1 - climb a short wide crack to a loose sloping ledge. We belayed on the right, behind a large detached flake.

Pitch 2 - Ascend a short steep, shallow crack 8' left of the belay to a ramp. Move left and up to ledges at the base of the main crack. (5.10 R) These 2 pitches can easily be done as one.

Pitch 3 - Ascend the steep chimney/offwidth to the top (5.9 or 5.10)... The last section overhangs, making this pitch one of the wildest on the Castle.

We climbed this route in traditional ground up style. There is definitely a Canadian Rockies feel here! No bolts were placed.

Location 

West end of the Castle. Start at the base of an offwidth crack...see photo

Protection 

1 set of nuts, 2 sets of cams up to 5", plus one 6" piece. A few pins may be useful, but they're not mandatory.


Photos of Hellevator Shaft Slideshow Add Photo
Green lines connect the cracks
Green lines connect the cracks

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