||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
|Original: || YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]|
|FA: ||Alan Sanderson & Brian Smoot, Aug. 2009|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||720|
|Submitted By: ||bsmoot on Aug 15, 2009|
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Route location. We approached from above.
|Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation|
Hellevator Shaft ascends the prominent offwidth/chimney system when viewed from the west.
Pitch 1 - climb a short wide crack to a loose sloping ledge. We belayed on the right, behind a large detached flake.
Pitch 2 - Ascend a short steep, shallow crack 8' left of the belay to a ramp. Move left and up to ledges at the base of the main crack. (5.10 R) These 2 pitches can easily be done as one.
Pitch 3 - Ascend the steep chimney/offwidth to the top (5.9 or 5.10)... The last section overhangs, making this pitch one of the wildest on the Castle.
We climbed this route in traditional ground up style. There is definitely a Canadian Rockies feel here! No bolts were placed.
West end of the Castle. Start at the base of an offwidth crack...see photo
1 set of nuts, 2 sets of cams up to 5", plus one 6" piece. A few pins may be useful, but they're not mandatory.
Green lines connect the cracks