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Hell Raiser
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 44 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | James Garrett and George Jamison, July 1995 |
Page Views: | 4,703 total · 29/month |
Shared By: | Mike Minson on Oct 10, 2010 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Starts in right-facing corner 50 feet right of Till Hell Freezes Over. Independent of its neighbor, Hell Raiser is more of an approach pitch to Til Hell Freezes Over. It climbs two pitches with its crux pitch coming in at .10b. Climb Hell Raiser as it's intended two pitches or use it as a variation to join the middle of Til Hell Freezes Over's second pitch.
P1 is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8)
P2 follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)
Stop here or continue via one bolt to join Til Hell Freezes Over's 2nd pitch.
P3 traverses left past a bolt and then joins Till Hell Freezes Over. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to Till Hell Freezes Over(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route.
P4 is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b).
P5 is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)
Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.
P1 is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8)
P2 follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)
Stop here or continue via one bolt to join Til Hell Freezes Over's 2nd pitch.
P3 traverses left past a bolt and then joins Till Hell Freezes Over. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to Till Hell Freezes Over(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route.
P4 is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b).
P5 is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)
Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.
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