Hell is for Heros
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This is a super cool pitch with excellent exposure right off the belay. It's too bad you have to go through the hassle of doing some funk to get one pitch off the ground. The crack is great by Lemmon standards, and the upper runout is pretty typical for these parts.
From the belay atop p1, climb up a flake to gain a horizontal crack that will take you right above the void. The crack then goes up through a bulge (very cool), continuing for about 60' with fingers and hands. Eventually the crack ends and easier face climbing with distant pro takes you up to a break in the summit block.
If this crack were a bit easier to get to it would be a must-do. As it is, it would be a great add-along if you were looking for something in addition to Cripple Creek.
This is the crack on the right arete of the main gulley that is the second pitch of the standard route. Do the first pitch of the SD, or there is a spooky looking direct start (10) that starts in the bushes on the lower face.
0tcu-2", many nuts, slings. There is a bolted rap anchor on top, a few feet down the other side which may or may not work for your belay.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
May 22, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
The wandering no-pro face above the crack on P2 is kind of ho-hum (except for the minor issue that falling might kill you), but it looks really easy to traverse over to the belay atop P2 of Cripple Creek and then finish on that route for more good climbing.
But wow, the first 60 feet of P2...that's some of the best climbing anywhere on the mountain. Pumpy, slightly overhanging climbing with wild exposure. P1 of Standard Route is not that bad as an approach pitch, though the long traverse is annoying.