A one time sport climbing mecca, this area of American Fork has historical value as the beginning of limestone sport climbing in America. Thank you Boone Speed, Tim Wagner, Jeff Pedersen, Mike Call, Bill Boyle, Mike Beck...etc.
This is still the place to get honed in the SLC area. The routes are bouldery and steep and require good technical skills as well as crazy finger strength.
Classics include Hell, Malvado/El Diablo and Body Count.
Once past the Timpanogos Cave Area, drive another .65 miles passing the Hideaway parking on the left.
Soon you will come to a long and spacious pullout on the south (right) side of the road. Park here and walk back down canyon crossing the road. Within 40 - 50 yards you will see a rocky trail leading uphill past a crumbly, black wall. There is one route, "Gateway" (12a) on this wall. The trail will lead right to the El Diablo Wall.
The directions here are NOT correct. It's .65 miles from the flag pole at the cave visitor center. If you go one mile you WILL find a large pull out, but you will NOT be near the right place. Cut back across the road, from the bottom end of the pull out and it's only about 2-3 minutes up the hill.