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Winter Wall
Routes Sorted
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Basalt Therapy T 
Blind Faith S 
Gopher Broke S 
Grape Ape S 
Hellboy S 
Highly Caffenated T 
Highway to Hell T 
Naked Lunch S 
Old Sling T 
Old Sling Straightened T 
Original Face Route T 
Pale Face S 
Post Moderate S 
Protein Supplement S 
Roid Boys S 
Sunbaked S 
Trough, The T 
Vitaman T 
Xibalba S 

Hellboy 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Matthias Graf, Jason Halladay, 10/2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,321
Submitted By: George Perkins on Nov 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Lee staying focused on the goal above the crux. No...

Description 

Hell Boy is a recent addition to Winter Wall, climbing the less steep portion of cliff just right of Post Moderate. I think this climb will be one of the better beginner leads in Diablo, once the new route grit and little flaky stuff is eroded.

The first half of the route is in character with the first half of Post Moderate, with similar low angle cruising with positive edges-- it never gets too tough so long as you look for footholds. Reach a 2-bolt anchor at 28m just before the wall steepens. 5.7 climbers might be happy to stop here.

Above is the steep crux, Hell Boy moves right to a crack just for a short distance (this line is Highway to Hell). If you avoid the crack entirely (contrived), the face just next to it can be climbed on small edges at 5.10+ or something like that. After this crux section, follow the bolts on easier climbing to a higher 2-bolt anchor that is up and left of the anchor for Highway to Hell. You can't see the anchor until you're almost there, but just go straight up from the last bolt and you'll get there.

Location 

Hell Boy is the red-hangered bolted climb right of the post and the classic 5.9 Post Moderate. Rappel from the 2-bolt anchor with 2 ropes; or, with a single 60m rope: rappel first to the intermediate anchor, then a 2nd rappel to the dirt.

Protection 

20 bolts to the 2-bolt anchor at the top. Can be done in 2 pitches with 10-12 draws, but is more fun climbed as one long pitch.


Photos of Hellboy Slideshow Add Photo
Chelly coming up P1 of "Hell Boy".
Chelly coming up P1 of "Hell Boy".

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 2, 2012
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 16, 2008

Chris-- for this bolted line, use the lower anchor of Highway to Hell, installed by S. Beguin and friends on the 1st recorded ascent of that route. [EDIT: that was in November; this has now been extended to the high anchors last weekend]

I agree with your point.. In my opinion, this climb would benefit by having a new separate, even lower anchor installed at the level of the 2nd to last bolt [EDIT: Jason put in an anchor somewhere around this section in Dec 2008]; this would better maintain the integrity of the trad line to its right and keep the climbing at a consistent 5.7 difficulty. It's not really a big deal though, the climb is alright as it is, and will get better with more traffic.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

That's a fine suggestion, George. We were being lazy and taking advantage of the existing anchors. I had also planned to install a mid-point anchor at about 90'. Another idea is to continue the route straight through the steeper, harder terrain to another set of anchors that already exists up there about another 30' beyond the Highway to Hell anchors. Let's go do that sometime this winter eh?
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

{Edit} Yeah, definitely go to the uppermost anchor. Some of the best rock is up there, and it's a comfy stance. And the lowest anchor provides a perfect sport line for a beginning leader.

IMO, still, it's too bad that "Hell Boy" feels like a "Squeeze Job".... Maybe if it had just stopped at the bottom anchor.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Chris Wenker wrote:
Just did this yesterday; these are my $0.02. As it is currently configured, rapping off the Highway to Hell anchors is pretty awkward, especially when you're trying to clean those top 2-3 draws. So, yeah, it would make sense to add a separate anchor for this line. And, if you guys want to keep the grade pretty moderate (and I'd say that many beginners would appreciate that), it would make sense to put in the anchor a bit lower, like George proposed (maybe at 29.5 meters?). IMO, that would also help to not make "Hell Boy" feel like a "Squeeze Job"....Question: I'd also heard elsewhere there was a second anchor somewhere up higher, similar to Jason's mention of the "anchors that already exist up there about another 30' beyond the Highway to Hell anchors." I couldn't see them. Are those higher anchors the ones that are at the top of Post Moderate? Or are there really two sets of anchors just for Highway to Hell? Thanks.
I appreciate your opinion, Chris. Thanks. Yes, adding some anchors lower down before the steep section would be more natural. Granted, the line is a bit of a squeeze job already but having separate anchors would help it feel less squeezed (and more independent). On a related note, I do believe you can get down with a single 70m off the Highway... anchors.

The other anchors are pretty much straight up about another 30'. You can see them from the top of Naked Lunch. I presume they were used for the original cleaning and establishing of Highway...
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 19, 2008

Chris Wenker wrote:
Question: I'd also heard elsewhere there was a second anchor somewhere up higher, similar to Jason's mention of the "anchors that already exist up there about another 30' beyond the Highway to Hell anchors." I couldn't see them. Are those higher anchors the ones that are at the top of Post Moderate? Or are there really two sets of anchors just for Highway to Hell?
I think Karl's comment on the Post Moderate page may answer your question about the high anchor. It sounds like they put the anchor in while they examined a separate line just right of what became Post Moderate, but they decided not to equip it because of a loose block. My guess is they were looking at a line left of what is now Hell Boy but I don't know for sure. Perhaps one of the ABQ crew will climb Hellboy and comment.
[EDIT: The new extension to Hellboy continues to this high anchor you mention.]
By Aaron Miller
Nov 24, 2008

Jason-

Thanks for contributing to the great climbing on the Winter Wall. I am psyched to see other people motivated to expand our local climbing.

This route has realy good potential to be a classic but it still needs a lot of cleaning. I would be happy to go out with you any time to work on it. There are even a few things that may have come loose on Naked Lunch that I could tend to. I just dont want anyone to get hurt. I think the potential for accidents on these lines especially -being attractive to the entry level climbers- warrants an extra good cleaning job.

-aaron
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Thanks for your comment, Aaron. You make some very good points and I agree with them all. We did do a fair bit of cleaning but indeed it could definitely use some more. I do try to bolt a route appropriately for the rating and, in fact, think there's an area down low where it feels a bit run out for the 5.8 leader so I hope to put another bolt in there.
It would be great to meet up for a cleaning/route maintenance day. A couple of us hope to go this Sunday morning early to do some more work on this and climb. I know weekends are bad for working on routes so we may not get much done but plan to arrive early enough to beat crowds at least for a bit. If we don't get much done I'll be heading back, maybe next Friday. I'll let you know.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 7, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Today, after replacing the missing hangers from bolts 2, 3 and 4 (WTF is that all about?), we added Fixe rap anchors at 28m and then added four more bolts on the face out left from the Highway to Hell anchors to existing chain anchors on a nice ledge about 40 feet higher. The route now comes in at about 165' total with 20 bolts.
Also, we did some good cleaning to remove potentially dubious rock. Of course, it never hurts my feelings if others want to contribute to cleaning it, too, as they climb it.
That said, it is a new route on the Winter Wall so climb with caution!
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Jason wrote: The other anchors are pretty much straight up about another 30'. You can see them from the top of Naked Lunch. I presume they were used for the original cleaning and establishing of Highway...

Highway to Hell was put up ground up and there is only one set of anchors that we put in at about 130'. We cleaned the route after the anchors were installed. As for most routes on this wall, they will probably always need a bit of cleaning every year with the freeze/thaw occurrences.
By Mark Mathis
Mar 6, 2009
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A very nice addition to the wall... Continuous at the grade with some tricky moves along the way makes for some fun climbing. And it's long, too! Thanks for the new accoutrements, Jason!
By Matthias Lang
From: Albuquerque
Apr 2, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Only went to the first anchor but I didn't think it was any easier than Post Moderate.