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Thomas Holmes working on getting established in th...
If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"
Strong enough endorsement?
Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!
6 or 7 bolts to anchors
|By Neal Carroll|
Oct 12, 2004
I STRONGLY disagree with the proposed quality of this route. It does not deserve to be included with the aforementioned group of routes....in my estimation. Truly an unpleasant undertaking.
From: electric lady land
Jan 28, 2006
poo choss weird dirty
|By Gordon Douglass|
May 19, 2006
Neal - I did not know you did not like hand jamming that much. The Helix is a TOTAL classic!
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 20, 2010
Not chossy or dirty in the least. Great route.
Aug 15, 2012
I disagree with all these comments, fun route (but not classic), no choss, dirt, or hand jams, but hand jugs and rope drag
|By Thomas Holmes|
Aug 15, 2012
There are two hand jams in the roof, if you place your feet correctly you can get a surprisingly good rest. This route is unique for sure, but not poor in quality. If your not well versed in different styles of climbing (not saying i am) I would imagine this route would give you trouble. I had to place double length draws on the first four bolts to avoid rope drag.
Slab, jugs, buckets, crimps, jams... and its steep.
|By Mark SLC|
Sep 3, 2012
Amazing. Couple observations...the flake was a bit spooky. Wouldnt want to be yarding on if it comes down on the rope. Probably fine though. As for the route- 12b? We found this stout. Getting off the flake - even on the dog, even to make the next clip and hit the roof pocket- was pretty damn tough and a huge move. My partner who is shorter and stronger couldn't even make the move. Maybe something broke here or we just botched the sequence. Or we just need to get stronger. At any rate I think most 12b leaders will find this a tough tick. Pretty pumpy to boot.
All in all, the most unique and one of the best routes in the canyon- if not anywhere for sport. The rock looks like a choss fest, but isn't. Plenty clean. And yeah I could see how someone who can't jam would probably not be a happy camper
Sep 4, 2012
Great climb! Like Thomas said if you hand jam there's a rest before the move to the hole. Tape gloves help. I've done the climb with hand jamming and without, but when there's a beautiful hand jam in the middle of a roof... you just gotta use it!
|By nathan williamson|
Apr 30, 2013
Fixed gear was as old as me. We put up a few new draws. Great classic route.