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 ADVANCED
Echo Cove - North Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of Britain (aka Penelope Street) T 
Chute Up T 
Echo Buttress TR 
Fun Stuff T 
Fun with a Gun T 
Hang Ten T 
Helix T 
Hot Knife T 
Palm-U-Granite T 
Pepasan T 
Pigs on the Wing T 
Pinky Lee T 
Porky Pig TR 
R. A. F. T 
Raging Intensity T 
Santa's Little Helpers T 
Sound of One Shoe Tapping, The T 
Swing Low S 
Tofu the Dwarf T 
W. A. C. T 

Helix 

YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.2 French: 3 Ewbanks: 8 UIAA: II ZA: 8 British: D 2c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 7, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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BETA PHOTO: Fun Stuff (left) to Pepason (right). Copyright 200...

Description 

This is the crack and chimney system right of The Sound of One Shoe Tapping and W. A. C.

The traditional rating is 5.2, but the chimney moves for the exit sequence are probably more 5.4ish.

If you're not leading 5.8 friction, this is a good route to hang a toprope on the aforementioned routes.


Protection 

Medium to largish trad gear to a shared chain anchor.


Photos of Helix Slideshow Add Photo
Helix". Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: Helix". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Helix Add Comment
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By mmurduff
Oct 23, 2005
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

This route can reach the anchors for the sport routes which are adjacent to Helix. Using larger gear and long runners, it is a choice lead for trad beginers and good practice at placing gear. Although I should mention that not a lot of gear is used on this route compared to other J-Tree routes. If nothing else the access to rap anchors verses walking off makes this route a quick hit.

Mike
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Worth doing if only to get to anchors for other climbs. Good rock, easy gear placements. Not much needed for an experienced leader.
By Ben Crowell
Nov 9, 2014
rating: 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c

Large gear; no point in bringing any nuts, or any cams smaller than about 1". Although the climbing is easy, placing pro doesn't necessarily help much, because in many cases a fall would mean hitting a ledge. There is a section near the top where you have to choose between an off-width crack and a narrower one. The top of the climb is a little saddle where the only pro is some cracks way around behind the wall (medium to large cams). If you want pro from the saddle up to the chains for WAC, I didn't see any other option than building an anchor at the chains and breaking it up into two pitches.