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|Type: ||Trad, Sport, Aid, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.12a A0 [details]|
|FA: ||Lance Bateman , Paul Ross. FCA. 7th Nov.2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Nov 15, 2010|
Lance on P1
Another fine effort by Lance .Some time previous to this discription Lance rope soloed the climb placing the pro bolts on lead from free stances. On this previous ascent he freed the one move that on this ascent after two falls he used a short pendulum from the last pro bolt.Most likely due to some fatigue after him spending seven hours the day before leading the five pitch repeat ascent of his 5.11/5.12a climb in Spotted Wolf Canyon.This climb is on superb rock with great situations and good protection. Starts up the first pitch of "The Black Helicopter" located in Univa Canyon.Follows what Lance calls a clean one day ascent.
P1)On entering the mouth of the canyon scramble up the gully on the right for about 200' to below a slab and the fine left facing corner that forms the climb of The Black Helicopter.Climb up the well protected face (5 bolts) to the belay below the corner of BH.Using the belay bolts as pro climb back down about 20' to a line of pro bolts leading out left onto the smooth looking face to hanging belay at double anchors.150' 5.11.
P2)Follow bolts up to the right then back left to reach a short crack system.It was from the last bolt that a short swing was made to reach the foot of the crack (some cams),up the crack to double anchors right of the pedistal block.150' A0 5.11+ AO.
P3)Go behing the block and difficlt moves up the wall following pro bolts to a long narrow ledge that is followed left to double anchors below the obvious crack/groove of pitch 4.150'5.12a.
P4)Climb the crack (cam protected)to double anchors situated on a narrow ledge just right of the top of the crack .100' 5.8.Note from here one can contine up at about 5.6 to the summit of the formation .
Descent:-From the top of P4 a single rope rap to the anchors top of P3 .From here a double rope rap to the gully below and scramble to the start.
Univa Canyon. Drive 3.1 miles from the I.70 interstate entrance to a right turn.Drive about quarter mile to parking next to a BLM sign (high clearence). From here walk up the road on the right and enter the canyon. The climb is located on the very impressive face on the right as one walks through the canyon . See topo Photo's.
Quick draws,Slings ,A few cams from 1" to a 6" are useful for P2 and P4. Two 60m ropes for the descent.
The traverse out to the hanging belay.
Lance at the belay of P1
BETA PHOTO: Ground shot.. Paul following the first pitch. Doub...
Lance at the last bolt before the move into the sh...
Ground shot P2,Lance approaching the traverse left...
Lance nearing the short crack on P2
Paul doing strange rope manipulations on the hangi...
Lance on the steep section of the third pitch.
Lance and Paul on the third pitch.Double click to ...
Moving up towards the long ledge.
Lance on belay at the end of the long ledge below ...
Paul arriving at the long ledge P3. Photo Lance Ba...
Paul stating up the final pitch..at last a pitch f...
Ground photo... Paul on the final crack
Lance coming up the Crack /Groove
Lance near top of the forth pitch
BETA PHOTO: The Route. A/B the start of both Heliotropism 5.12...
Dusk at the Spotted Wolf camp. Time for home....