|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches, 750', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||John Hegyes, Ryan McPhee, George Urioste, Larry DeAngelo|
|Submitted By:||Larry DeAngelo on Jan 1, 2005|
|Comments on Heliotrope||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Bryson Slothower
Apr 5, 2006
|I was able to traverse out right to this route from Solar Slab to climb the pay off pitch and avoid waiting for a party ahead of us. Great climbing, no runout.|
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Mar 31, 2010
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
A blessedly open route compared to the conga line you're SURE to grovel in over on Solar Slab. Take this and laugh at all the gapers groping up the 5.6 just off your left shoulder. Let them dine on your dust as you pass 'em all en route to the top.
Fair warning: Handren's sandbagging guide lists the P2 slanting right crack as 5.9, and I agree. Certainly felt as hard (and steeper) as the 5.9 variation on Johnny Vegas below. But it nuts fantastically well, so whatever--good times either way.
That said, I'm eschewing the "R" rating because most all the runnout is on 5.7-5.8 stuff, a full grade or two less than the crux (you wouldn't call 70ft of unprotected, tennis shoe 5.2 "runnout," would you?). Still, you DO need to get your bold head on to lead P3 and P4--thrice I looked down with 40ft+ free-hanging rope attached to some pretty craptastic placements in that POS death-zone white sand. Just keep climbing and pretend you have superpowers and you'll probably fair well.
Lastly, some advice for the P3 anchor. There is none. FUCK! I ended up stretching rope and aiming for the higher of two distinct, varnished plate systems--each about the size around of a hula-hoop--and slung a nest of well-seated nuts. (You can barley see both, just left of the upper purple arrow, pic 6.) It's well left of the previous anchor, PROBABLY sets up some nasty pendulum action for your follower, unless you're climbing double ropes and can work protect-for-the-second magic. But? the leader's the one stickin' neck out on that spooky, airy, no-pro band. So let 'em fly and have fun!
Apr 4, 2011
|Best route up there. Bring a head-- serious runouts, albeit on easy terrain. Dunno why anybody would do Solar Slab when this is right there.|
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 13, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
|Pitch 2 has some nice crack climbing that is probably stout for the 5.8 grade at RR. Save small cams to about 0.75 for the belay on pitch 3. Pitch 4 would be R or maybe X rated if you go straight for the crack 100 feet up on the white stone as I initially did. I reversed from quite high and traversed left a bit to clove-hitch a plate and then felt much safer. So I suggest that on pitch 4 you drift a bit left then back slightly right to the crack as the direct line gets quite run out on sloper sandy white rock.|