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Nuclear Reactor Rock
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Helicopter Memory Farts 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jacques Le Coq, Ro Bear & Gil Bear, 10/90
Page Views: 257
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Apr 10, 2005
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On the nervous friction section.

Description 

Up to overlap and, rather tricky, onto the slab above with the first bolt for protection. Rough friction, somewhat nervously, leads to the second bolt. More friction trending a little leftwards leads to a horizontal and small cam. Over the next overlap to finish. Possible groundfall before second bolt.


Protection 

2 bolts (3/8"), medium cams for an anchor



Photos of Helicopter Memory Farts Slideshow Add Photo
Crux move over the first overlap.
Crux move over the first overlap.
Nuclear Reactor Rock
BETA PHOTO: Nuclear Reactor Rock
Helicopter Memory Farts
BETA PHOTO: Helicopter Memory Farts
Comments on Helicopter Memory Farts Add Comment
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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 26, 2005
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c

Ah! Another fun one... The start can cause some frazzle if one is not used to Jtree friction... I personally feel the 5.9 is over rating the climb... Currently the rock has some loose sh*t on it... A little wind and a few more feet this season will take care of it!!!...