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 ADVANCED
Central Gully
Select Route:
Blue In Green S 
Footprints S 
Helicopter Effect T 
Magali's Arete S 
Objectivist Tendencies T 
Rational Expectations S 
Seven Steps to Heaven S 
Snickerdoodle S 
Spontaneous Order S 
Straight, No Chaser T 
Tee it Up, Cupcake S 

Helicopter Effect 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (March 2008)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 584
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 28, 2008

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Matthew Fienup climbs Helicopter Effect at the For...

Description 

The original route up the summit block atop Rational Expectations & Magali's Arete.

From the top of the those routes, traverse right around the corner to the north. Follow a finger and hand crack in a shallow dihedral. Where the vertical crack meets a horizontal hand crack, follow the hand crack left past a few solid jams. Turn the corner to the left and follow the arete (past one bolt) to the top.

Location 

Starts on the north side of the summit block atop Rational Expectations and Magali's Arete. This is the summit block that separates the Right Side Gully from the Central Gully. For more info, click here

Approach and descend the same as for Seven Steps.

Protection 

A few pieces (#1 TCU up to 2"), one lead bolt, bolted anchor with rappel rings.


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By Cori Tite
From: Sylmar, CA
Jun 2, 2014

This is a really fun climb although it's a bit on the short site. If this route was two times longer it would be an awesome climb. Instant exposure and fun moves; would rate it three stars if it weren't so short.