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 ADVANCED
Booty Wall Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back That Ass Up Traverse T 
Crystal Left T,S 
Death of a Monarch T 
Gateway Drug T,S 
Heisenberg T,S 
Pirate Treasure S 
Scallywaggers T,S 
Under Pressure S 
White Lines T,S 
X Marks the Spot S 
Unsorted Routes:

Heisenberg 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
New Route: Yes
Season: mostly summer and fall
Page Views: 1,221
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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The line.

Description 

The Uncertainty Principle. This is the original line I aided on this cliff and what drew us up there to do White Lines. Follow the steep crack system of White Lines to the corner at the third bolt. Then keep trending right 4 more bolts up through a crux with a rose move, then a dyno, then top out at the apex of the roof.

Location 

5th class or climb one of the routes in the vicinity of SPF 50, then veer right in the notch just above the first pitch, heading for the biggest roof you see. This is also directly above Gateway Drugs, which might be a decent warmup to the steepness.
The first 30 feet are shared with White Lines. To be clear, there is a bolt right at the bottom of the line, then gear, then a bolt on the face, then a little alcove/corner with a bolt. This is where W.L. splits up and left through the crack in the roof. Heisenburg stays on the steeper features for four bolts and finishes on the apex of the steepest wall.

Protection 

.4 to #2 camalot, draws.


Photos of Heisenberg Slideshow Add Photo
Sticking the dyno, photo by <a href='http://www.caseyhyer.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >caseyhyer.com</a>
Sticking the dyno, photo by caseyhyer.com
Skinny Pete and Badger warming up.
Skinny Pete and Badger warming up.
Heisenberg
Heisenberg
And then there is this.
And then there is this.

Comments on Heisenberg Add Comment
Show which comments
By zoso
Oct 26, 2013

Way to nail it!
By bsmoot
Oct 26, 2013

Yes! On an exploratory probe, this is where Clay, on one of his first aid climbing lead leads ever, tackled the steepest part of this big airy roof. Just as he was pulling over the top, he desperately tried to place anything that would hold his weight. He found only small, shallow groove type cracks. A big plunge into space was taken here as some of his manky placements ripped.

Clay, this wouldn't have happened if you would have brought...some Bashies!
By tenesmus
Oct 30, 2013

Brian - the cool part is that when one of the pins ripped out it took a nice block with it. The dyno move is made from the unique lip/edge created by the removed block. In that vein, we had to put a couple of the bolts higher than optimal but where the best rock was. We're putting a couple of steel perma-draws on those bolts. Even I'm not that tall.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 30, 2013

You guys did it! Nice work!!
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 3, 2013

Solid work, Clay! Sounds awesome.