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This route is a laughable sandbag. I would call it 5.11c, R, A0. The very first move is the crux and has a bolt clippable at head height...it involves a one armed leap off okay feet and an okay crimp, HUGE move. For getting a PG-13 rating in one book and R in the online guide, it probably isn't too bad on lead, huge jugs to clip from, crux's are very well protected.
Just right of Spooner and Fifth Force
Jul 3, 2008
The first move can be done statically. Also, the run-out is located before clipping the 3rd bolt: a long reach to a good hold leads to good edges from which the bolt is clipped. A fall from the edges (before clipping) would be a ground fall; however the clip is not so bad. Higher up, long reaches between diminishing edges lead to a balance crux clipping the anchor. Anchor now equipped with chains (thanks, Chris). Probably feels more like .11c/d than .11b. Also, it deserves at least three stars for how good the climbing is.
Dec 31, 2008
FA: Greg Child, Andy DeKlerk.