This route is a laughable sandbag. I would call it 5.11c, R, A0. The very first move is the crux and has a bolt clippable at head height...it involves a one armed leap off okay feet and an okay crimp, HUGE move. For getting a PG-13 rating in one book and R in the online guide, it probably isn't too bad on lead, huge jugs to clip from, crux's are very well protected.
Just right of Spooner and Fifth Force
|Comments on Heironymous Bosch
Jul 3, 2008
The first move can be done statically. Also, the run-out is located before clipping the 3rd bolt: a long reach to a good hold leads to good edges from which the bolt is clipped. A fall from the edges (before clipping) would be a ground fall; however the clip is not so bad. Higher up, long reaches between diminishing edges lead to a balance crux clipping the anchor. Anchor now equipped with chains (thanks, Chris). Probably feels more like .11c/d than .11b. Also, it deserves at least three stars for how good the climbing is.
Dec 31, 2008
FA: Greg Child, Andy DeKlerk.