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Heironymous Bosch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: Scott W on May 19, 2008
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Description 

This route is a laughable sandbag. I would call it 5.11c, R, A0. The very first move is the crux and has a bolt clippable at head height...it involves a one armed leap off okay feet and an okay crimp, HUGE move. For getting a PG-13 rating in one book and R in the online guide, it probably isn't too bad on lead, huge jugs to clip from, crux's are very well protected.


Location 

Just right of Spooner and Fifth Force


Protection 

Quick draws



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By Drewsky
Jul 3, 2008

The first move can be done statically. Also, the run-out is located before clipping the 3rd bolt: a long reach to a good hold leads to good edges from which the bolt is clipped. A fall from the edges (before clipping) would be a ground fall; however the clip is not so bad. Higher up, long reaches between diminishing edges lead to a balance crux clipping the anchor. Anchor now equipped with chains (thanks, Chris). Probably feels more like .11c/d than .11b. Also, it deserves at least three stars for how good the climbing is.

By Drewsky
Dec 31, 2008

FA: Greg Child, Andy DeKlerk.