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Start on the same platform as for Floater, and work left through cool hueco and tufa features before you can slap a huge jug and finish up the southeast arete route.
This route felt impossible until I sat there for an hour and really figured out the beta. Then it almost felt trivial. What grade do you call that?
Also who is the real first ascentionist?
Start at the same place as Floater and go left.
Pad over the rocks below the crux.
|Comments on Heinous Gayness
Nov 17, 2011
Originally this received a V4, but a hold broke and Dan Russell gave it a new grade of V6 (2001). The start reportedly begins in Left El Jeffe's holds and the first couple moves are ridiculously easy/trivial. If you start one hold farther right, as has been listed under this route description, you have the ledge to deal with too, which makes the start feel even more trivial in my opinion. The crux section is fun but may be tough if you lack the reach. Dab potential is high (skip the pad if you're struggling).