Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Boulder aka The Wedge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chick Floater 
Chick Power 
Cupcake 
Don't Tell Mom TR 
Floater aka Center Route 
Heinous Gayness 
Left El Jeffe 
Pungase 
Smoker's Paradise Project 
Southeast Arete 
Trail Route S,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Heinous Gayness 

Hueco: V4 Font: 6B

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V4 Font: 6B [details]
FA: Brian Shelton and that crew
Page Views: 901
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Jun 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Start on the same platform as for Floater, and work left through cool hueco and tufa features before you can slap a huge jug and finish up the southeast arete route.

This route felt impossible until I sat there for an hour and really figured out the beta. Then it almost felt trivial. What grade do you call that?

Also who is the real first ascentionist?

Location 

Start at the same place as Floater and go left.

Protection 

Pad over the rocks below the crux.


Comments on Heinous Gayness Add Comment
Show which comments
By NicholasM
Nov 17, 2011

Originally this received a V4, but a hold broke and Dan Russell gave it a new grade of V6 (2001). The start reportedly begins in Left El Jeffe's holds and the first couple moves are ridiculously easy/trivial. If you start one hold farther right, as has been listed under this route description, you have the ledge to deal with too, which makes the start feel even more trivial in my opinion. The crux section is fun but may be tough if you lack the reach. Dab potential is high (skip the pad if you're struggling).