Heel-Toe, Ramp Start WI4 M6
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | WI4 M5-6 [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | pointy on Jan 22, 2013 |
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Climbing the pillar on the second pitch. Jediah Po...
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Location This route follow the iced up, right-facing ramps/corners in the center of the wall, trending left for a mixed finish. Start at the small ice flow just down and left from the litter at The Chouinard Wall and finish just right of Cave Man on The Main Wall.
Description P1: Climb the initial ice flow, then move left and up across broken ground to the iced up, right-facing ramps/corners. Follow these to the big snowy ledge 2/3 of the way up. Build an anchor here. There are several old rap stations.
P2: Move left and climb up to the small detached ice pillar under the prominent "diving board" rock feature. Climb up the pillar and move left across a ledge. Now dry tool up to and over a roof at the end of the ledge, passing a fixed pin. A short section of mixed climbing takes you to the top from here.
Protection Screws (including a few stubbies) and rock gear to a #2 C4.
BETA PHOTO: Heel Toe, Ramp Start
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| Comments on Heel-Toe, Ramp Start |
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By Brian Treanor
Feb 10, 2013
| I've always been confused by this description (here, and by others in person). My take has been that the actual "Heel Toe" finishes up to the right, by throwing a heel hook and then manteling onto the "diving board" feature. In my opinion, this is the defining move of the Heel Toe route; it's full value to do that move with boots, crampons, and tools, especially when you find the top of the top of the "diving board" covered in snow (either ice or dry rock being preferable).
The left finish is fun as well, but it's much easier and, just in my opinion, an alternative, variation to the proper route.
Of course, any number of folks may chime in at this point and tell me that the original line goes left or something similar; but, whatever the point, you should really do the right finish, which is harder, more dramatic, and just a better finish to one of the best mixed lines in LVC. |
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