Heel-A Monster 5.13-
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| Type: | Sport, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13a/b [details] |
| FA: | Vincent Bates (Bolted by Vincent Bates and Luis Cisneros) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Luis Cisneros on Jul 24, 2012 |
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BETA PHOTO: Heel-A Monster!
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Description Great long route. Best rock quality at the Orifice Wall. Thin and acrobatic climbing, not as steep as the other hard climbs in this area, but still very steep for normal standards. Very hard for about 40 feet (after the big black ledge) and then is sustained, and thought provoking, 11+/12- for a long ways. ATTENTION!!!! LOWERING FALL HAZARD. This route is very steep. When lowering from it, you need to clip your rope back to the draws in order to pull you in, or you will be stranded out in space away from the ledge. THIS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS. Belayers PLEASE be aware of this and DO NOT DROP the climber. #***************************************************************************************************************************************************# #* TIE A STOPPER KNOT AT THE END OF THE ROPE TO AVOID IT FROM SLIPPING THROUGH YOUR BELAY DEVICE *# #***************************************************************************************************************************************************# A single 60mts rope will barely take you safely to the ledge. So IF CLIMBING WITH A 60MTS ROPE PLEASE BE EXTRA CAREFUL. We found that clipping your rope to the chain draws right before the hard crux is sufficient.
Location Wall to the left of the main Orifice Wall.
Protection Chain draws
A Monster Heel
| Lower moves, about to start the hard section
| Long and thin moves
| Not as slaby as it looks from bellow...
| Power of Heel-A
| crux moves
| crux
| cherry-on-top move at the end of the awesome and v...
| jug haul for once
| middle section moves... getting into the crystal g...
| navigating the groove moves
| hell yeah!
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