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Redgarden - Lumpe to the top
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Heddie La Rue 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: M. Brooks, J Stuberg, C Coy, 1981
Page Views: 451
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 27, 2003
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@ jugs after the crux.
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  • Description 

    This route lies near the very top-end of Redgarden Wall. In fact, it is very near Crag X and the Hypothermia area, where Redgarden merges into the Rincon Area at the Potato Chip.

    Approach via the Redgarden Wall trail going all of the way to the top at the LAST clear switchback. This is where the uppermost branch of the walkoff trail hits the ground. There is a small crag just NW of this point, with a few left leaning crack systems running up from its right hand side to the summit. At the lowest right hand edge of this crag is a ~4" diameter Juniper tree, and 8' left of that is a ~10" short-needled pine. A thin crack rises from the ground ~3' left of the tree, in spots this opens to 2" and in spots is is barely a seam.

    Climb up the leaning crack towards the top- the crux is after perhaps 20' and over a decent #1 Camalot. Footwork on small holds and finger strength for key sidepulls and pinches are the keys to making this route go. As you go upward beyond 30 feet, the route gets easier. Perhaps 5 feet from the top the crack gets nasty- step left 5' to the next line and ride it for an additional 15 feet to the top of the crag. Walk back a ways from the edge and set an anchor and place your rope so as not to knock off anything loose (this was done on a #3 Camalot and a huge stopper on the FA).

    To descend, walk up and to the climber's left past some death blocks and under the low branches of a few trees to reach the Redgarden walk-off trail again. (3 min)

    I'll place some pictures up when I get my slides developed and scanned in.


    Protection 

    1 set of nuts including small RPs or BD copper-steels + a few small tricams and TCU's + One 2-2.5" Friend. The pro is thin and not usually quite where you'd like to have it. Some of the pieces are poor near insecure moves. A groundfall should be really unlikely, but the route is heady.



    Photos of Heddie La Rue Slideshow Add Photo
    Starting out.
    Starting out.
    "Heddie La Rue" climbs the obvious crack system on this rock. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.
    BETA PHOTO: "Heddie La Rue" climbs the obvious crack system on...
    Starting the crux.
    Starting the crux.
    Heddie La Rue. <br />You walk right under this on the walk off trail....
    BETA PHOTO: Heddie La Rue.
    You walk right under this on the wa...
    Comments on Heddie La Rue Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Littleton
    Apr 20, 2011
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

    This pitch does not deserve an "R" rating as long as you have RPs and small cams such as C3s. A fun pitch that I thought was mid 5.10 for a move or two.

    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Apr 20, 2011
    rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

    Fun, but way harder than it looks! It's hard to smear on lichen I guess....

    Oh yeah, save a #3 for the top out.