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Unsorted Routes:

Heavy Weather 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 4,714
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Bob D on the FA.

Description 

This is a beautiful line up the left side of Surreal Estate Wall (the third big clean wall reached from the standard North side approach). The belayer relaxes on inclined rock as the leader tackles the continual cruxes. A few shakeouts can be found and will certainly help. The first crux pulls through on pockets, a mid-bouldery crux pulls edges before reaching a final overlap and the third major crux overlap. Sequential, pumpy, and awesome!


Protection 

10 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Heavy Weather Slideshow Add Photo
Heading up a sea of crimps and pockets, trying to weather the storm.
Heading up a sea of crimps and pockets, trying to ...
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 29, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 26, 2001

One of my favorite routes at Shelf. Very sustained and sequential.I don't think there is a move of 5.12 on it but 90% of it is in the 11c/d range and the moves are not real obvious on the on-sight.Clipping stratagy is crucial.

By Joe Collins
Oct 27, 2003
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Awesome route. This climb reminds me of Hot Bitch on the Beach at Cactus Cliff... no real stopper crux but lots of 11+ climbing. Shorter climbers may find the middle crux to be pretty reachy.

By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

Very continuous at the grade with few good rests. Doesn't really let up until you clip the chains. Quite a bit harder than its neighbor Unusual Weather. Quality climb.

By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a

One of my favorite routes at Shelf, as well. One of the most consistent route for the grade at Shelf, in my opinion. At 5'8" with normal ape index, I found crux moves a little reachy, but doable if I knew where to go for. Definitely difficult to on-sight if you are pushing the grade. The last crux move is pretty awesome and desperate, if you are pumped, so rest well before.

By Tom Hanson
Oct 15, 2008

Reminiscent of Pay Homage at Castlewood, though a touch easier.

By Kai Huang
From: Thornton, CO
Apr 26, 2009

11 bolts to 2 biners anchor.

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 14, 2009

I onsighted both about 15 years ago and would say that Heavy Weather is slightly harder. Both have an obvious reachy crux, but Heavy weather is more sequential and does not have the rest that Pay Homage has. But then again, I also onsighted McFly .12d and Suedehead .12d at Shelf Road and think McFly was a little harder, due to it not being "my style".

By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Mar 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Probably the best .12 I've done at Shelf, ultra-classic!

By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2012

This route is amazing! I have done a lot of routes at Shelf, and this could potentially be the best I have done. In a nutshell, it's absolutely perfect pocket pulling on bullet hard, perfect stone for 75 feet with sequential, cool, lockoffy type moves. Freakin' amazing!!! Do it....

By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
May 28, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

This climb is magnificent potentially one of the best routes I've ever done. The moves are super fun, and the rock is great. On a side note, to compare this and Pay Homage at crumblewood is ludacris. Pay Homage is a sharp, shitty chosspile of a route. Whereas Heavy Weather is absolutely stunning with great rock. The moves on both were slightly similar, but the rock quality and lack of sharp as shit holds is what makes this route a classic and Pay Homage a pile.

By richard magill
May 29, 2013

Ludacris like the rapper? Or ludicrous like the adjective?

I recall Pay Homage being pretty darn good not ludicrous, but Heavy Weather is awesome, great stone....