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Sunset North
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Unsorted Routes:

Heavy Hands 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 504
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jul 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Slightly less ferocious than it looks, Heavy Hands is a short but worthwhile route with about 20' of intense 5.8 climbing, then it quickly mellows out. Great protection takes some of the edge off the opening moves.

Climb to a medium roof split by a hand-sized crack just off the ground. Boulder through the roof on good jugs, then follow the crack past a couple of small pine trees to the top.

Location 

Starts 50' left of Beginner's Route, about three minutes' walk south of the RJ Gold area.

Protection 

Medium gear to #3 Camalot or equivalent. Hexes work great in the lower crack. Use trees at the top to build an anchor. Rap from slung tree and quicklink.


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