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Beta Slave 
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Heavy Duty Judy 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Lane, ~1993
Page Views: 961
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on May 8, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Ben on the opening moves.
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Description 

This route is found on the next wall to the right from the Beta Slave area. Follow the trail along the base of the cliff. You will pass one line (Entry Level 5.8) with logs at the base. The next route right is Heavy Duty Judy. Crux is near second bolt. This route is a good warm-up or a good 10 lead. It's not too hard for the grade, and there are only a couple of hard moves.


Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.



Photos of Heavy Duty Judy Slideshow Add Photo
Scott gettin' funky with the foot work and making the route harder than it should be.
Scott gettin' funky with the foot work and making ...
Airtime on Heavy Duty Judy.
Airtime on Heavy Duty Judy.
Looking for good feet before the crux.
Looking for good feet before the crux.
Comments on Heavy Duty Judy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Nov 23, 2002

FFA, bolts by Mike Lane, circa '93.

By MAKB
From: Front Range, CO
May 18, 2008

This route is between Entry Level and Radiation Fear.

By Old and Busted
From: Centennial, CO
Jan 12, 2009

Yesterday Tzilla replaced the cold shuts with standard hangers. There are several other routes around here that need that. What was notable was the minimal corrosion (virtually none) on 20-year old carbon steel (painted) cold shuts and the plated bolts.

By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Feb 8, 2009

I climbed both the left and right sides of this route yesterday. It was like climbing two completely different climbs. I would say the right side is a tad easier, better bolted, and much more fun.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Dec 13, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b

Not a good warm up when it is cold- too many "can't feel them" slopers if you have numb fingers. Fun moves, but not good like Beta Slave or Hedgeclipper.