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Heaven's Gate 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: David Gunstone and Darryl Cramer
Page Views: 6,822
Submitted By: Jesse James on Apr 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Lamplighter pitch, showing the lieback section


This route is basically a 3 pitch extension to the first pitch of Lamplighter.

P1(5.10c). Lamplighter, it is a steep looking wide crack, with many good holds to supplement. After the chimney follow a crack system slightly right past a couple bolts. Don't belay at the first anchor you see! Keep heading right another 20 feet to another two bolt anchor. I thought this was the best pitch on the route.

P2(5.11a). Follow Bolts over the bulge directly above the belay to an edgy face.

P3(5.10+). More edging past many bolts.

P4(5.11a). Follow more bolts past two roofs to a final two bolt anchor at a nice ledge. The second roof holds the crux of the route in my opinion.

A 70 meter rope will get you through all of the rappels


Left of Davis Holland, you will see two bulging offwidths off of the ground. Lamplighter is the right crack. Then follow the bolts.


15 or so draws, 70 meter rope, single rack to 3 inches for the first pitch.

Parties often leave their trad gear at the top of P1, and then recover it on rappel. (It is just dead weight for the next 3 pitches.)

Photos of Heaven's Gate Slideshow Add Photo
Rachel following Pitch 3 of Heaven's Gate (11a).
Rachel following Pitch 3 of Heaven's Gate (11a).
Moving through the roof on P4
Moving through the roof on P4
Following on Pitch 2 5.11a
Following on Pitch 2 5.11a
Moving the belay, pitch 1.5
Moving the belay, pitch 1.5
Pat almost to the top of p 1 of heavens gate
Pat almost to the top of p 1 of heavens gate
Tom Michael pitch one Heaven's Gate.
Tom Michael pitch one Heaven's Gate.
Upper layback lamplighter pitch.
Upper layback lamplighter pitch.
Tom Michael pitch 3 Heaven's Gate.
Tom Michael pitch 3 Heaven's Gate.
Tom Michael on the Lamplighter pitch.
Tom Michael on the Lamplighter pitch.
Pat taking off on pw of Heaven's Gate
Pat taking off on pw of Heaven's Gate
Dr. Michael sending the final pitch of Heaven's Ga...
Dr. Michael sending the final pitch of Heaven's Ga...

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 16, 2014
By Chris Duca
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 13, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

A great route that is deserved of the same hype Davis-Holland receives.
By Tod Bloxham
Aug 24, 2009

Way fun! Definitely a must do. Pitches 2-4 is thoroughly bolted so there is no worry of getting run out anywhere on these pitches.

P1 (10c trad chimney with some bolts) can be awkward in places, but just when you think it's getting desperate, there are no hands rests.

P2 is a one move wonder (11a; pull the roof at the anchors then go long and right for the jug/rail). Very sporty/edgy (10) for the remainder of the pitch (thoroughly bolted).

P3 is shorter to the roofs. The angle eases up and is more relaxing version of the previous.

P4 is through the double roofs with the second roof definitely the crux of the route (harder than the roof at the start of P2).

If you only have a 60 meter rope, there is a decent way to rap off this route using both the Heaven's Gate and Golden Road Anchors:
-From Heaven's Gate anchors, rappel straight down 30 meters to next bolted anchors below roofs (you will be at the ends of your rope).
-Rappel down 30 meters to the very ends of your rope and pull/walk yourself ~30' over to the anchors on Golden Road (the anchors are not very visible until you are near the ends of your rope, and you will be at the last 2-3 feet of your rope to reach the anchors; there is little to no rope abrasion when pulling/walking yourself over if you position your rope properly).
-Rappel to next anchors on Golden Road.
-Rappel <30 meters to a ledge 15 feet off the ground (ropes will be out of sight down an overhang).
-Scramble down off of the ledge after pulling your rope.

Be aware! These are full length rappels on a 60 meter, so if you are unsure of your rope length, walk off instead (or bring a 70 meter or double ropes).
By Jon Nelson
Sep 28, 2011

The first pitch seems harder than 10c, and is the only factor that kept me from giving the route 4 stars. The top three pitches are a blast, the second seems easier than 11a and the fourth seems stiff for 11a, though definitely not as hard as other Index 11bs.

Bring a full-range rack for the first pitch, but leave it at the belay. Pitches 2-4 are fully bolted. I thought pitch 2 was continually difficult/interesting, the move at the roof being similar in difficulty to moves higher up, except that a little more power is needed.

The crux for me on pitch 4 was going over the second roof. But the holds are all pretty good - it just gets a little pumpy. If you are good at hanging out on your arms, then you might find it easy.
By Eric8
From: Framingham
Sep 29, 2011

I was told the second pitch was 10b and felt okay with that in comparison to the grading of the other pitches on the route. The first pitch isn't easy but index 10c seems about right. I don't think it is as hard as slow children.
By jspitzer
Oct 4, 2011

An excellent route, highly recommend! The first pitch is classic Index 5.10 climbing.
By MorganH
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Fun climbing. I found the first pitch to be the crux. It was rather perplexing climbing, especially as I was expecting a 5.8 (old clint cummins guidebook).
By Ben Kunz
Jul 31, 2013

Amazing climb and well worth doing. Agree that the bolting and great gear on pitch one make this a very accessible climb for those looking to push themselves at/into these grades!
By hummerchine
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

First pitch is burly 11b flash pump, entire route is stellar!
By andrew bogaard
Aug 19, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Very fun -- although to grade pitch 1 at 10c and pitch 3 at 10+ isn't very consistent. I thought p1 was harder than 10c and p3 was about 9+.
By Jon Nelson
Aug 19, 2014

About P3, I think there are two ways to do it. The harder rating applies to the way in which you stay left of the arete.
By andrew bogaard
Sep 16, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Jon, that makes sense. I definitely took the easier way out at the top, along the arete.
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