The quintessential runout face climb on Lumpy Ridge. Begin in the obvious crack system approx. 20' left of the big left facing dihedral on the right side of the Pear, look for the 2 bolt and chain anchor on the top of the 1st pitch [new 3/8 in, 2003]. Pitch #1: Climb the flared crack to its end step right to a hanging flake, then work up and left to the anchor. Pitch #2: Head straight up from the belay, hard moves at first, then sustained 5.8/5.9 for approx. 120' (no pro) to a belay just above a bulge at a crack system. Leaders in the past have clipped bolts on weight loss clinic to the [left], but be advised these are old. Apparently, this pitch also had a fixed pin that was snapped in a large leader fall. Traverse off to the right, easy, and descend.
Rack to a #2 Camalot, with RPs for 1st pitch.
|By Mike Carnes|
Apr 16, 2006
Climbed this the other day and it's awesome. One of the better pitch's at the Pear for sure. I only climbed the first pitch to the chains and it protects pretty well, possibly an R rating maybe not. Bring little RPs for the last sequence of moves. It looks like the second pitch gets the X which you don't have to do.