|Rock Of Ages
Heavenly Daze is the obvious hard sport line that is immediately left of the Nameless Demons dihedral and about 50' left of the start of Days of Heaven.
It is probably a little soft for the grade, but nevertheless the climbing is fantastic. There are several very hard moves (two of which are pulling over bulges) on postive holds but none of them felt reach-dependent or insecure. The definite crux comes around the 5th/6th bolt - ramping edges and difficult feet. The climb is very well-bolted: run out enough to make you not want to blow it, but the bolts are located well and the clipping holds are always good.
Three bolts, a pin, three more bolts, an epoxied stopper. Small wires can supplement the gear but they would be very pumpy to place.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Sep 5, 2007
Did the route shortly after the FA, with Patience and ripped off this huge tooth of a rock which landed exactly where her head would have been as she sat belaying. If I hadn't fallen and pulled her ever so slightly to the side, I would be writing a much different comment.... Needless to say, that was a very bad situation, and I can't believe we kept climbing. We both were running on a shot of adrenaline, for sure!
The route is safer now, with at least that timebomb off in history.
Jul 12, 2008
Funny, Pa took me to this place too. I like this route ALOT! Best sport route that I have climbed so far. Climbed it after Heidi W. showed me were to place the gear between the bolts.
|By Stefan Griebel|
Aug 28, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Cool route, but why the epoxied stopper when the rest of the route is bolted?
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 28, 2012
It makes sense when you consider that (I presume) they were drilling by hand.