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Heaven 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 1,658
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 28, 2007
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matt on heaven
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not a normal sport climb by any means....
The route follows a slightly inverted "V" groove through interesting stemming moves. Some folks even end up with there backs facing to the wall and pulling a corkscrew move.... When was the last time you did that on a sport route?

Heaven is a good warm up for the harder climbs at the crag or a very worth while route in its own right....

A few times I've been on it I've had to do battle with big spiders and big webs...so make your friend go first....


Location 

The route follows the "V" groove that splits the super-steep, right section of the cliff from the left section.... Stick clip and start on the left or jump for the good holds on the right....


Protection 

5 bolts to anchors.



Photos of Heaven Slideshow Add Photo
jakob
jakob
Get at it!
Get at it!
Jared... reaching toward Heaven...
Jared... reaching toward Heaven...
It was odd to find some prehung draws on an 11, but they were certainly welcomed!  Myself on Heaven.
It was odd to find some prehung draws on an 11, bu...
no body puts jakob in the corner
no body puts jakob in the corner
The technical upper part with the press of the fish.
The technical upper part with the press of the fis...
jakob working it out
jakob working it out
Mike chimneying up heaven - not the difference in rotation from me - lots of ways to do this climb (this way looked more efficient though).
Mike chimneying up heaven - not the difference in ...
jared, focused
jared, focused
Comments on Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 30, 2007

I was actually just there yesterday, and that is the reason I didn't get on it.....the HUMONGOUS spider webs at the top.....scaaaary!

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 2, 2007

I'll clean the webs off for you if you will climb it Mike....

By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 15, 2008

Love this route...it would be interesting to see somebody else do the corkscrew, I did it differently.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 15, 2008

I've done it 3 or 4 times and i think i've done the corkscrew twice and didn't the other time or 2... i think what ever flows is how it goes...