|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|Submitted By:||Brian Milhaupt on Jun 14, 2003|
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|Comments on Heaven Can Wait||Add Comment|
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 3, 2007
|I didn't find this route to be "clean". The left face that you smear was quite flaky. It is an okay warm-up for the area, since it is the easiest pitch under 5.11 that is not "X" rated.|
By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 30, 2007
Greg Miller and I did this climb to the top. Gillett says P1 and P2 FA are unknown. P3 10b past the roof was added in 1984 by Mike Caldwell and Barlow.
P1 is gnarly, unpleasant and felt pretty hard. P2 is easy but runout. Save a #2 Camalot for the middle of P2 and another #2 and/or #1 for the belay below the roof. I had neither and belayed from 2 sideways nuts in the roof. We belayed at the top of the P2 flakes rather than at the left end of the subsequent traverse ledge, so that a leader fall reaching the first bolt on P3 would not be directly onto the belay. The disadvantage to belaying where we did was that once clipped into the first bold the rope would slide to the right across the lip of the roof if the leader fell above that.
P3 is pretty friable, and is spicy getting to the first bolt with the gear below the roof. The moves to the first bolt are about 10a. Once you're clipped it's still spicy, because the bolts are quarter inchers (but the hangar looked good!), presumably from 1984. The moves past the first bolt are the 10b crux and get a touch easier as you get to the second bolt. Some easier moves, maybe 5.8 or 9, lead to a horizontal and trad gear. Greg ran it out for the full 200' far right to a walkoff ledge. Descend right via an easy flake (we belayed), more hiking, and then a squeeze down a chimney (can belay the first person).
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
|We climbed through the 5.5 section to the roof, single nut/sling/carabiner rappel back to the ground with a single 70m rope.|