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Heaven Can Wait 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Caldwell, ?
Page Views: 785
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Jun 14, 2003

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Gear at the end of the hard climbing. It looks lik...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Locate a tree below the left end of the large overhang. This route ascends the large, left-facing dihedral ending at the ledge with that tree. This seems to be the best warm-up pitch in the area, unless you start on the Fin City formation behind the Crescent Wall. Well protected and fairly clean, this route jams and smears the corner 80' to the ledge.


Protection 

Standard rack.



Photos of Heaven Can Wait Slideshow Add Photo
Low down on P1, trying to get out of the crack onto the flakes to the left. P2 is visible at the top left of the photo just right of the tree and ends below the white spot in the roof. Photo by Greg Miller.
Low down on P1, trying to get out of the crack ont...
The crack is gnarly, unpleasant and hard, so it was a relief to get out onto these flakes. Photo by Greg Miller.
The crack is gnarly, unpleasant and hard, so it wa...
Moving over the roof on friable hand holds. The gear is to the right with a long sling. You could place gear further left, but the bend in the rope would be worse. The first bolt, which turned out to be 1/4", is reached when your feet are about one foot above the lip.
Moving over the roof on friable hand holds. The ge...
Moving past the first bolt to the second and last bolt, also a quarter incher. These is the second and harder crux. Greg has a bunch of trad gear, because it's a long way on easier trad ground to the belay.
Moving past the first bolt to the second and last ...
The first crux is pulling on to your right foot in this position, and after that you clip the first bolt. Following, I fell finishing this move when a right hand hold peeled off.
The first crux is pulling on to your right foot in...
Tom Jensen leading up Heaven Can Wait.
Tom Jensen leading up Heaven Can Wait.
Comments on Heaven Can Wait Add Comment
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By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
May 3, 2007

I didn't find this route to be "clean". The left face that you smear was quite flaky. It is an okay warm-up for the area, since it is the easiest pitch under 5.11 that is not "X" rated.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 30, 2007

Greg Miller and I did this climb to the top. Gillett says P1 and P2 FA are unknown. P3 10b past the roof was added in 1984 by Mike Caldwell and Barlow.

P1 is gnarly, unpleasant and felt pretty hard. P2 is easy but runout. Save a #2 Camalot for the middle of P2 and another #2 and/or #1 for the belay below the roof. I had neither and belayed from 2 sideways nuts in the roof. We belayed at the top of the P2 flakes rather than at the left end of the subsequent traverse ledge, so that a leader fall reaching the first bolt on P3 would not be directly onto the belay. The disadvantage to belaying where we did was that once clipped into the first bold the rope would slide to the right across the lip of the roof if the leader fell above that.

P3 is pretty friable, and is spicy getting to the first bolt with the gear below the roof. The moves to the first bolt are about 10a. Once you're clipped it's still spicy, because the bolts are quarter inchers (but the hangar looked good!), presumably from 1984. The moves past the first bolt are the 10b crux and get a touch easier as you get to the second bolt. Some easier moves, maybe 5.8 or 9, lead to a horizontal and trad gear. Greg ran it out for the full 200' far right to a walkoff ledge. Descend right via an easy flake (we belayed), more hiking, and then a squeeze down a chimney (can belay the first person).

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 30, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We climbed through the 5.5 section to the roof, single nut/sling/carabiner rappel back to the ground with a single 70m rope.