Heave Ho  5.9

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet FA:  D. Fortner & T. Collins, 1989 Submitted By:  Tony B on Sep 12, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>> The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited. Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite. Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This climb is perhaps 100m up the hill from the 'Move Like A Stud' area. It is a huge, red, right-facing, dihedral that starts small but gets big. Although it is attractive from a distance, the rock quality on the bottom 2/3 leaves something to be desired.

Start at a crack with some lichen and some questionable rock. Climb up through improving conditions to reach the bottom of the massive hanging dihedral. Start placing gear and continue climbing up. About 5m from the top, the rock becomes very solid and less featured. Place a few pieces and execute a 5.9 crux to topout. A trad anchor can be set at the top of medium to large stoppers and small to medium cams.

Descend as for other area routes, via the 4th class descent or rap the station above 'Move Like A Stud.'

Protection 

A standard rack to 2.5".