Heatwave  5.10a A3

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Type:  Aid, 3 pitches, 350 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.10a A3 [details] FA:  Patrick Kingsbury, Ed Czech May 2007 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  TomKingsbury on Aug 20, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

pitch 2 of the heatwave

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North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>> 5/31/2013 The NPS has announced that the North Face of Devil's Tower is temporarily closed for nesting prairie falcons until further notice. Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please see www.nps.gov/ns/deto/planyourvisit/junevoluntaryclosure.htm For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

P1. climb either 'man w/o a planet' (.10a) or 'lack of enthusiasm'(.11?) 125'. P2. follow the straight in crack on thin aid to a 2 bolt anchor. (A2+), 75'.
P3. Follow the now right facing dihedral on sustained thin placements including peckers and heads until possible to pendulum right 10' to a two bolt anchor. (A3), 165'

Location 

crack directly above man w/o a planet, or 2 cracks right of 'deli express'.

Protection 

Standard aid rack including heads, rurps, peckers, beaks, and hooks