Heating Up the Hood
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getting into the crux section
To all the 'hardmen' (and women) this is considered the warm-up for the harder pocketed problems. I consider it a great route on its own merits. A mix of face, crack, and pocket climbing technique can be used.
This route has two starts, both beginning underneath the large pine tree. The first begins up the water chute for two bolts (and is done less often due to being wet and muddy from water seepage/runoff). The more frequently done start climbs past two bolts up the face/ramp to the right, and then traverses left through a pod to the remaining chain-draw line. Pass a couple more chain draws, and when you reach the large hole/pocket move up and right (crux:no feet) towards the anchors past the final chain draw.
Two bolts to five fixed chain draws. Usually there are a couple bail-beaners on the anchor bolts for you to lower off.
Moving through the lower section
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 8, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
fyi- as of summer 2012, all the bolts have chain draws, and the anchor is two carabiners- no draws needed.
super fun route, little pumpy, little techy for a moment or two, pretty easy at the grade at Charleston. Well worth doing.