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Heather 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FFA Rick Fleming 1980
Page Views: 1,654
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 1, 2008
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Description 

A fierce line from ages ago. I seem to remember Rick spending a week on the FA. The crack is hard and sustained with a face climbing boulder crux at half height. Move left to ledge then back right over a bulge to finish (pin).


Location 

Just right of Airation


Protection 

Gear is good but takes some time at the crux (wires). A typical Cathedral hard thin crack.



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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 2, 2008

Hi John. How are you? I might add a few things to your description. The route involves a fairly stout and potentially painful boulder problem right off the tree ledge. The section traversing left is hard but don't underestimate the last bulge either. Has someone done the route without the ledge? Lastly, climbers will want tape since much of the crack consists of those finger-munching little pods typical of the Airation buttress.

Most ratings of Heather that I have seen are 5.12b. It's probably a bit longer than 75 feet since it goes to the top of the wall.

By john strand
From: southern colo
Jun 12, 2008

Hello Peter, good to hear from you. I'm older and pretty arthritic but living in southern colo and building a house. I hope to be climbing again in the fall.

I sure don't know of anyone going straight up without the ledge but it sure seems possible.Was the boulder start done by Hugh ? The move right on the bulge IS hard but I always thought it not the crux- but the route really has 3 hard sections and is tough.

john

By Rick Fleming
Jan 31, 2009

I'd like to think someone has gone straight up. It would add 3-4 cool hard moves. The ledge rest is kind of a flaw in the line, but bypassing it would fix that problem!

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Feb 1, 2009

Is this the Rick Fleming who first freed Heather? I remember working on the moves going straight up on toprope but it might be more contrived than it appears.

By Rick Fleming
Feb 2, 2009

Hi Peter. Yes, same me. I haven't been on the route since 1980, but climbing plenty. I looked once at the straight up version, and even broke an old fixed pin on a fall. The rest version was good enough for me back then!