Type: Trad
FA: Gene Vallee, 1978
Page Views: 4,468 total · 25/month
Shared By: Lee Hansche on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Parking Issues: Starting 10/24/20 a reservation will be required to park at Reservation Rd. on all days and for the Backside on the weekends. See DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Near the left end of the cliff you cant miss this perfect left leaning crack coming out of a small cave. If you start down in the cave it's more like 5.12 and called Maximum Heat. For a challenging 5.11 (the way it's most often done)start off the rock and lean out for your first jams. Follow the crack system up and left to a mellow finish and a tree anchor.

I found the crux to be the first 2/3 of the steep climbing haha. really pumpy and sustained, by the time it lets up and you get a few good jams it feels just as hard due to exaustion. the upper 20-30 feet are mellow 5.7ish climbing thank god haha. a great route with good protection. do it.
It's steep, hard, funky and beautiful.

Location Suggest change

Near the left end of Devils Den, you will see this amazing line leaning left and beckoning...

Protection Suggest change

Regular rack. anchor to trees

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