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An interesting route. At the beginning the routes kinda chossy and slightly forced (it's 5.11 here, but 5.8 6 feet to the right...), but the quality improves greatly with height and the line becomes more natural. We got kinda lost in the middle (actually gave up on the route at one point and just climbed what looked cool) so my beta is a bit questionable.
P1: Start on the left side of the tower in the shade under the obvious roof. Climb a variety of face, crack and dihedral up to the center roof crack. Not the easy one on the right, the cool one in the middle. Pull the roof, head up and belay on the ledge above. (5.11)
P2: Never found it. Supposed to be 5.10, felt like 5.8. Climb up for a ways and belay.
P3: Easy stuff. Climb up a bunch of 3rd class towards the top. I'm almost under the impression you should head left into the grassy gully thing.
P4: Find the biggest, left-facing diherdral on the face and climb it. After getting to the big thank god horn head right (or up if your really badass) to another small, left dihedral. Then up. Then up again and belay on a nice ledge. Feel happy. Supposedly 10 but felt kinda mellow but heady.
P5: Up cracks to ledge above (10).
P6: Move belay WAY (150'?) left, and go up an obvious, left-facing dihedral to an obvious, right-facing dihedral above. Sweet pitch. (10)
Rack up to 3 Camalot. Bigger stuff could be useful, but it's also heavy, and you don't need it. Doubles up to hands is nice but more important in the smaller sizes.
Descent: From the summit rap West and continue down the gully. Bringing rap sling(s) and leaver biner(s) are a decent idea. A couple anchors are hidden but there. I did the descent in climbing shoes and wouldn't really recommend it.
BETA PHOTO: So, you got lost. Head up the long, left-facing di...
|By Dave Stewart|
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2006
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
I'd say 2 stars out of 4 is a good star rating for the climb. The Gillett guidebook gives it 3 stars out of 3. I climbed this with Mike, and we were both in agreement that the author probably did not climb this route based on the star rating he gave it. I'd say it is a good route, but not great, and definitely not classic. As to be expected in the alpine, we climbed over a lot of loose shit, broke some holds, and brushed off a lot of lichen. Maybe it will clean up with a couple more ascents, but maybe I'm just spoiled from my last RMNP climb on the Diamond. Also it did not follow a very natural line. There are some fun pitches though. Great views of the North Face of Sharkstooth and really fun "gymnastic" roof on the first pitch.