|883 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.11- [details]|
|FA: ||Rich Strang & Mike Phalan|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Winter, Spring, Fall|
|Submitted By: ||Rstrang on Mar 16, 2012|
Nearing the 3rd pitch crux
Heat Seeker (5.11-)
Finished to the Top.
P1*** - Climb just right of the original Suntoucher, on steep rock with big holds that looks loose but is quite solid (Heat Seeker is the most right line with gray hangers). Climbing is mostly 5.8 with a harder 5.9ish move midway, move to the Suntoucher belay on the left at about 60 feet- 6 blots to anchors
P2*** - Move back right to clip the bolts below the roof arete. Climb the "bouldery" V2ish roof section past the first 3 bolts (climbing is mostly just left of the bolts). Exit onto the upper ramp where Suntoucher climbs straight up. From here diagonal up and right on pretty clean moderate rock to the 2nd crack and climb up to "Cactus Ledge" - Awesome belay stance!! (5.10+/11a over the roof) 60 feet - 8 bolts to anchors, can be combined with P1.
P3**** - Stem/chimney up along the pillar and move left at the 3rd bolt. Climb the right side of the roof up killer rock and diagonal left towards the arete. Make a final hardish move to the hanging stance at about 85 feet (5.10 c/d) - 10 bolts to anchors
P4**** - Head up and left from the belay, most people will probably climb into the corner. This section has weird looking rock that looks loose but we cleaned it all good - trust it. Continue up the corner (stepping right to the arete breifly is OK, we cleaned that good too) At the top of the corner, chug out left onto the headwall with some wild overhanging & squencey moves up onto a small ledge and then the top. 70 feet (5.10+) - 9 bolts to anchors (I left an intemediate bolt at the crux for people that can't clip the crux bolt easily, I may move those bolts sometime soon which will make this pitch 8 bolts)
Rappel the route with a 60m rope thru the belay ledges. A 70m rope will rap to the ground from "Cactus Ledge"
5 feet right of Suntoucher. The route parallels that route for the first 80 feet and then diagonals right towards a prominant pillar on the right skyline. It then climbs up the smooth red buttress left of the pillar and up along the right side of the upper headwall
All bolts/QD's. 10 QD's plus anchoring slings/biners for P3 - If you combine pitches 1 & 2 you need 14 QD's plus anchoring slings at the ledge
BETA PHOTO: SUNDEVIL WALL:
A - Heat Seeker (5.11-)
B - Origina...
Fun moderate climbing on steep rock-Daniel Berry t...
Mike enjoys moderate moves above the 2nd pitch roo...
Daniel & Leo trying out
the new 3rd pitch on
Coming up easy rock just below the final headwall
At the small ledge - the top of the 4th pitch head...
Mike Phalan enjoys the Final Belay during the FA
From: Santa Fe, NM
Apr 7, 2012
All the climbing turned out to be really cool, especally the upper pitches
We cleaned all pitches quite well but still approach with some caution. The 2nd pitch roof problem is pretty neat and the 3rd pitch up on the red butress is KILLER. The 4th pitch up the corner & out the headwall is very sequency but on awesome jugs. It felt very 5.11 up there but I'm pretty sure that its just powerfull and EXCITING 5.10
You could do some fun & very moderate multi-pitch (CHEAT-SEEKER) if you do the easy 5.8/5.9 first pitch of this route - Then avoid the roof problem by climbing the first 3 bolts of Suntoucher. After clipping the "hidden" 3rd bolt on Suntoucher P2 - continue out right to Heat Seeker and up to cactus ledge. Do the 3rd pitch of Heat Seeker and while you're up there give the 4th pitch a try - the holds are really big, it's just quite airy and intimidating
|By Aaron Miller|
Apr 9, 2012
Nice work Rich-
Looking forward to trying it. Should be good in the shade all Summer til about 11am.
From: Santa Fe, NM
Apr 11, 2012
Thanks Aaron. I think you'll really like those upper pitches. It's really fun and varied climbing on real nice rock. Really cool exit
|By Aaron Miller|
Apr 30, 2012
Great Route!!! The last pitch is spectacular. The first and second are not as memorable due to varied rock quality, but the climbing is easy enough and its definitely worth getting to the last two pitches of fun, quality rock climbing. I think this route will clean up nicely with a little traffic and the first two pitches will become good too.
Thanks again for all your hard work Rich.