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Broken Tooth
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Heat Searcher T 
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Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack T 

Heat Searcher 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Petro & Royster
Page Views: 2,357
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Second pitch of Heat Searcher

Description 

Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.

Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.

P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poor rock, the pitch climbs extremely well. 5.10+, 120'.

P2: Launch up a short bomb bay slot and then pull up onto the extremely steep thin hands crack. 5.11+, 70'.

Protection 

P1: Bring the stuff you need for pitch two plus a selection of TCU's.

P2: Camalots, in order of placement:

1x #3.5
1x #2
4x #1's
2x 0.75's
1x #2 (for the pod)
2x 0.5's
Draws for the anchor.

Two ropes to rap.


Photos of Heat Searcher Slideshow Add Photo
moving up to the top of the first pitch.
moving up to the top of the first pitch.

Comments on Heat Searcher Add Comment
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By Brian Weinstein
Nov 29, 2008
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Stellar line. Easily one of the best I have done in the desert. Thin hands up high turned to stacks for a good 25 feet for me. So good.
By Amir
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 26, 2009

A 4.5 camalot helps protect the belay as you go into the bombay on P2
By Aaron Martinuzzi
Apr 19, 2010

for those who have done Blue Sky Mining and are looking for a non-wide 5.10 at Broken Tooth (two of the 5.10+'s listed here are repeats of Unknown 11- and Pussy Wuss Crack), the first pitch of Heat Searcher is a really great chimneying and stemming pitch. the chimney is undeniably a bit sandy and has a couple hollow flakes, but the 80 feet of twin crack climbing above is as good as it gets at the grade. get on it if you're looking for something a bit more moderate at this cliff, or a warm-up that isn't wide or is a little less physical than Blue Sky.

also, it's more like 125+ feet - our 70 meter rope took me within about 10 feet of the deck, luckily in easily down-climbable terrain.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Jan 23, 2012
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

One of the best splitters at its grade...
By Josh Ewing
From: Bluff, UT
Jun 24, 2012

Great climb. Worst possible anchor placement. I'll add a bolt around the arete next time to allow a comfortable belay for the second pitch. Otherwise, do it in one crazy long 70m pitch, trailing a second line. Burly.
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Nov 2, 2012

Spectacular climb. Two great pitches. The head wall splitter is one of the best.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Apr 15, 2013

Added beefy rap rings to the top anchor courtesy of the ASCA. There was so much tat up there you couldn't even clip the bolts...

A good samaritan could bring up a can of Tan Spraypaint to help camo the new chain that I added to the P1 belay. Both anchors have two good bolts and I'm guessing Josh fixed up the P1 belay, which works pretty well.

An 80m rope is perfect for getting down from the P1 anchor. The second half of pitch one is awesome, killer stemming on good rock, makes up for the sandy chimney at the start.