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Heartbreaker
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Heartbreaker T 
Surfing the Orgasmic Wave S 

Heartbreaker 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle 1984
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: Guy H. on Jun 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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The route...

Description 

Heartbreaker is a classic line, which does not see a lot of traffic due to its location. The next time you are at Boxtop or The Odyssey, you should stop and check out this beauty. It is one of the better 5.10 trad lines at the City.

Follow the thin leaning hand crack to the crux move entering the dihedral. The crack above eases to easy 5.10 with good jams and gear. Save at least one #2 camalot for the anchor, which is hand size gear.


Location 

This route is located on the north side of the rock and starts on a exposed ledge that is gained by a low fifth class scramble.

Protection 

2 sets of cams from .5 - 2 camalot, 2-3 lg nuts

bring an extra .75 and 1, if you want to sew it up


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By Tim Wolfe
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 27, 2011

Sooo Good. Tape up. The route needs no beta - just look at it, get ready, go. Total knee lock rests up high (wear a left knee brace/sleeve).
By Ryan Arnold
Jun 19, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I didn't need the knee guard but I would love it if someone placed some rap anchors; currently you've got a few slings partially hung around a manky flake. This climb is the Incredible Hand Crack of the City, really fun hand jams.
By Dave Holliday
Jun 19, 2015

Re: the rappel anchor. It looked sketchy enough that I sought out alternatives after following the route. If you walk straight back from the top-out and trend slightly right, you'll be deposited on terra firma in a couple of minutes. It took me all of about five minutes to get back to our packs near the base of the route.
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