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Heart Throb 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 62
Submitted By: Chris D on Sep 9, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Luis starts up the short corner on Heart Throb at ...

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Start up a nice crack in a left facing corner below a large roof. The second edition Watts guide describes this as a pleasant crack that most people climb to the bolt and lower from. The original route continues by traversing left then up through steep blocky terrain.

Beyond the initial traverse, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 up to the blocks, then probably 5.10 or more to finish. There is no 5.7 terrain above the traverse.


The unmistakeable corner with the large roof about 20 feet to the left of Theseus


A couple of pieces to 2 inches if you're just climbing the crack. If you're going all the way to the top, add a set of wired stoppers.

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Luis trying to find a reasonable way to the top of the rimrock on Heart Throb.
BETA PHOTO: Luis trying to find a reasonable way to the top of...
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By Chris D
From: the couch
Sep 9, 2013

NOTE: The 5.7 climbing ends at the bolt below the roof. You can lower from here, but you'll be lowering and rapping from a single bolt at some point. There's also a fixed pin above the bolt.

Not sure if anyone's finished the route lately, but the stuff above the little traverse to the left of the roof is way harder than 5.7, even old school 5.7.

The crack is okay, I guess, but nothing you'd want to hike in just to do. It's very short.