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The Textbooks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avant Garde T,TR 
Bad Manners T 
Big Man on Campus T,TR 
Block Party TR 
Chalkboard S,TR 
Deep Sleep T 
Graduation Day T,TR 
Heart Throb T 
Labyrinth T,TR 
Minotaur T,TR 
Prom Night T 
Rage T 
Schools Out T 
Splash T,TR 
Theseus T,TR 
Virgin Slayer T 
Unsorted Routes:

Heart Throb 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 169
Submitted By: Chris D on Sep 9, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Luis starts up the short corner on Heart Throb at ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start up a nice crack in a left facing corner below a large roof. The second edition Watts guide describes this as a pleasant crack that most people climb to the bolt and lower from. The original route continues by traversing left then up through steep blocky terrain.

Beyond the initial traverse, the climbing is 5.8-5.9 up to the blocks, then probably 5.10 or more to finish. There is no 5.7 terrain above the traverse.

Location 

The unmistakeable corner with the large roof about 20 feet to the left of Theseus

Protection 

A couple of pieces to 2 inches if you're just climbing the crack. If you're going all the way to the top, add a set of wired stoppers.


Photos of Heart Throb Slideshow Add Photo
Luis trying to find a reasonable way to the top of the rimrock on Heart Throb.
BETA PHOTO: Luis trying to find a reasonable way to the top of...

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By Chris D
From: the couch
Sep 9, 2013

NOTE: The 5.7 climbing ends at the bolt below the roof. You can lower from here, but you'll be lowering and rapping from a single bolt at some point. There's also a fixed pin above the bolt.

Not sure if anyone's finished the route lately, but the stuff above the little traverse to the left of the roof is way harder than 5.7, even old school 5.7.

The crack is okay, I guess, but nothing you'd want to hike in just to do. It's very short.
By Holden
From: Eugene, OR
May 27, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Though well protected, the move up around the roof is much harder than a 5.7. Don't lead this route if that is your limit.
By Priti Wright
From: Seattle, Washington
Sep 2, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The second roof was way harder than Virgin Slayer but easier than Labyrinth.