Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Campfire Crag - South Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banquet T 
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 
Feast T 
Feminine Itch S 
Fetus, The S 
Fool's Ruby T 
Heart Slab T 
I Love my Marine S 
I Love my Marine, Direct T 
Impatience (AKA A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 
Kundalini- Linguini- Weenie T 
Lunch T 
McAloo Tikki TR 
McChoss TR 
McStain S 
Picnic T 
Shattered S 
Sokolove S 

Heart Slab 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Bill Todd and others, 10/86
Page Views: 652
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Oct 30, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Heart Slab. 5 Bolts no anchor. A fun variation wil...

Description 

Scramble up the gully left of and behind campsite 42. Towards the top, on the main south face of Campfire Crag, this route angles up and left past two bolts to the right end of a horizontal, then up past three bolts from there. Gear belay and walk/scramle off.


Protection 

Five bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" for an anchor.


Photos of Heart Slab Slideshow Add Photo
Heart Slab
BETA PHOTO: Heart Slab

Comments on Heart Slab Add Comment
Show which comments
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 2, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Short way above the start is a horizontal crack that you can get some pro in. Not much of a help though. The one remaining bolt is a quarter inch job, but it's in good. The rock is solid and the climbing sound. For the novice I do not recommend it as a fall above UNO bolt is a "Deck delight" (no Thompsons Water Seal included), due to the runout. No anchors to rap or bring a partner up on. An obvious area (When you top out) can take some cams for an anchor. We did not find an easy walkoff (It also was dark yesterday when we finished. Light helps!!!) So I lowered Big D and took a long hike ending up saying "hi" to a bunch of screaming mimi's in the Group camping area on the north side of the rock (Whoops!). Overall it was a pretty fun, short one. Would make a good solo!
By Anonymous Coward
Dec 29, 2004

The bolts on this were replaced in Dec 2004. All the bolts were in place, but only the fourth had a hanger. The fifth is shaply off to the left, so you could miss it, but I don't see how you missed the first one. It now has five new 3/8" bolts, but no fixed anchor.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 1, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

whomever replaced the hangers thank you...........I think I'll go do it again.....................
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Apr 10, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

AS of 4/9/2005 this route has only two bolts/hangers on it. And frankly, they are all that are needed on this rather easy route.
By Woody Stark
Apr 11, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route's not worth the scramble to its base. How it ever got a 5.8 rating is beyond me.
By Justin Slagle
From: Palm Desert, CA
Feb 12, 2009

Ok climb, if you're shorter put a piece in the horizontal, it's kinda a move to the first bolt for the vertically challenged and could be a nasty fall if you don't, up two more bolts and then way left to the water trough for the next bolt, climbs good going straight up as well, just not protected.
By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Aug 20, 2011

This route has 5 bolts. It does not run straight up the trough like it shows in the Vogel guide. The new Miramontes guide displays it acurately. Also the anchors have been chopped. It is possible to build an anchor under the bolder on top or sling it with a short rope or long webbing. The 5.8 rating goes if done this way. Downclimb climbers left towards the chimney.