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Northeast Face
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Heart Route 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 1,082
Submitted By: Greg DeMatteo on May 25, 2007

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jojo ascending the heart route.

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  • Description 

    Mixed crack and face climbing up a stem box and then up a general crack weakness to the belay ledge. So named because of a heart shaped graffiti tag from a long-ago love-struck artist. Takes a variety of protection. Nuts and TCU's for anchor.


    Descend Shark Fin Gully.


    Full rack. Plenty of opportunities for a variety of protection.

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    By Gregory Cooper
    From: Prescott, AZ
    Oct 25, 2014
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    This route can be broken into two pitches depending on where you start. Most people scramble the easy low fifth class terrain to the large belay ledge. This can be dicey though, and newer climbers might not be comfortable with it.

    This route can also be hard to communicate to your belayer once you get higher up. I was once told by one of my instructors, who lives near the butte, that he could probably understand us better than climbers could each other.

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